tommy nutter

the great saville row tailorThe 1970s were a fascinating time in tailoring. Bespoke tailoring came increasingly under threat from the RTW garment industry, and in response, lead by Tommy Nutter chose to innovate. The 1970s were probably the last decade in which the fashionable cut was set by bespoke tailoring with the Nutter-Sexton team creating the look with the dramatically wide lapels, often with narrow concave shoulders and flared trouser bottoms. Much that looks fashion forward from this era in fact has roots in the greater tradition of tailoring, and often Edwardian or Victorian echoes can be discerned. You may not think of those '70s styled mutton chop side burns as being Victorian, because they are presented in a way that looks ridiculously fashion forward. Likewise, the safari jacket was just another form of hunting sports jacket often cut similarly to a Norfolk jacket. The safari suit was likewise the summer equivalent of something like a Norkfolk suit. While the relentless experimentation meant that a lot of wilder things failed to hit the mark, it was a decade of great character and vitality, when skilled tailors could still be found everywhere.

The biggest development in the style of the lounge coat was the predominance of the button-two coat, with the long lapels. The popularity of this style is something that endures to this day, and is a lasting legacy of the 1970s. I also like the way three piece lounge suits were extremely common, usually matched with a very plainly cut SB waistcoat. More conservatively cut coats than the fashionable Nutter-Sexton styled ones still have fairly wide lapels and the trouser hems widened a little compared to the more closely cut uppers. Coats in general were cut clean and close to the chest, waist and shoulders