Monday 6 October 2014

skins

The Skinhead look from the late sixties and early 70s is almost a forgotten fashion. Although, most people associate Skinheads with the late 70s and early 80s, there was a strong Skinhead movement in Britain between 1968 and 1972, with 1969 to 1971 being the time when Skinheads were primarily in the newsI have added new bits of clobber to show what was and what might be(all clothes are buyable ) .
The clothes added are only intended to show that these days the Mod and Skinhead cult fashion has maybe moved into one another so things not worn then are maybe able to live together sort of thing now.The skinhead era was a time when uneducated working class kids wanted something that they could call their own , no one really knows how it took off but I heard that the first skins were from West Ham. The idea of words like townie as you see in this text that I borrowed and altered as to what the truth is were never used by london skins, those kind of words were up north and the only time we went north was for football matches
(The Schott bomber here is basically what the 68 skin bomber was )Most people think of the 60s as the era of  the Mods, then Flower Power and Hippies. (the monkey jacket was never a skinhead jacket but the harrington was )The Hippy era though was mainly a middle class rebellion against middle class values.  Many working class young people found they could not identify with it. alpha bombers were worn in 68They never had the middle class lifestyle to rebel against. Whereas Mod embraced the consumer society, the Hippy movement, although later much commercialised, itself rejected it.The hippies were at the beginning intellectual the skins were not, the hippies fought against peasants being slaughtered by the united fruit company of America while the skins just copied the way the marines dressed. These working class youngsters had nowhere to go because the uncultured go nowhere and believe in bullshit .but some people got bad memories , listen to this so called Skinhead "" I born in 1956 and was a mod from the age of eight. By 1970/71 I'd begun to be influenced by the 'townie' look(never happened) , which was a cross between mod and skinhead.(shades were flyers glasses , very often ex vietnam) I don't know how geographically specific this term was, but most of the descriptions of suede-head fashions above (Ben Sherman/gingham shirts, clip-on braces, tonic suites, crombies, brogues, lofas, D.M. shoes -rather than boots-, Levi jeans or sta-prest, pocket hankies etc) are what we in the West Midlands would have termed the 'townie' look. I was delighted by the so called Mod revival of 1979, the essence of which was exactly how I dressed eight years previous. I was also delighted because it asserted the anti-racist credentials of the movement(mods were basically apolitical). Most of the post-mod cults around 1970 were so heavily into reggae music that racism was frowned upon(really ?) . Mod was, in many ways, politically progressive. We were into the US Civil rights movement and CND(never knew a skin who even fucking knew what CND stood for). Like Curtis Mayfield, we were keen to 'move on up' in the world; we wanted change and we were upwardly mobile(bollox). There were hard core skins, but they were definitely on the fringe of the scene/( the real truth was that in 67 -68 the skins were basically apolitical apart from beating up drunks, pakistanis and students ). I recall black and white kids grooving on down together on many occasions and in many venues; indeed, the best dancers and stylists (the 'faces') were often Black kids. Anyway, just a few thoughts from an old timer(yeh bollox mate).most of us started with ex Army hobnail boots then progressed onto Monkey Boots - there certainly weren't many DMs around in 1969 that's for sure.












The Skinhead fashion for men evolved from the Mod fashion earlier in the sixties. The original Skinhead fashion was smart style derived from the American Ivy league fashion,
although unlike Mod fashion, which was an ever changing scene, the 60s Skinhead became a uniform.
The late 60s and early 70s Skinhead took elements of Mod and was a clear evolution from it. The look was smart. Short hair was not a brave statement in the late sixties us skins didnt even think about it . The original Skinhead was not completely shaven, but had a short, smart haircut.  The inspiration may have been a combination of the college boy haircut favoured by the Mods and military style haircuts.  A new hero was emerging on our TV screens in 1968 and 1969, the American marine jumping from helicopters fighting the viets. Their short, smart haircuts were the complete opposite to the Hippie style.
By 1968, the Skinhead look comprised short hair, a button-down shirt, or sometimes a Fred Perry instead, Sta Prest trousers or Levi 501s, brogues or boots with an army-style shine on them (more often exclusively  Dr Marten's in london in the late 60's  for the 1968 look, before there had been red tuf boots with big toe caps).  Sometimes a suit was worn, often a classic Mod style tonic suit with narrow trousers and lapels, the complete opposite of the flared jeans preferred by the hippies. Ties were narrow, usually striped. Sometimes a cardigan replaced the suit jacket.Skinheads wore Jungle Greens, Thats the only military kit they wore. Around our way NW London we was lucky to get hold of the American OG 107 Sateen Fatigues, Other parts of London not sure, But you could also get hold of the British Army 58 patten Jungle Issue Trousers. .It seems to me that some of the earlier "Look" varied-the same as the latter Style did.Lawrences Corner did a good trade in Army Surplus,I was taken there when I was 17 by a Guy(who lived just around the corner from Warren Street Tube).There were Mods/Skins in there buying all sorts of stuff.Army Coats have been worn-there is a picture of one being worn-and not by a bloody Hippy.Do not forget the Fashion at that time was Hussar Jackets etc.(I Was Lord Kitcheners Valet etc.),so some Mods were going one further.It was the Hippies that copied that style from the Mods.I can talk about 67/68 as I saw it.I will not say that Skinheads in London,did not wear that etc.Because it has been proved time and time again-there were variations in the different Areas of London.
Gerry above says "That pic of me from 1968 was me as a skinny 14yr old in Scotland with my parents.
I cannot remember what shoes I had one??I thought they may have been loafers but I didnt get my first pair until 1969.maybe brogues??
I took in my first away game at Upton Park Aug 1969 to see West Ham v Newcastle.What a sight….thousands of skinheads in the North Bank,Doc MartinsMonkey Boots, Ben Shermans, trilbys (never pork pies)Jungle greens, Sta -Prest, cardigans……
Navy Mix Wool Blend Herringbone Trilby Hat with Stormwear™
Chelsea were the first smart fans I ever saw in 1968. Nearly all of them wearing Dark Blue Burberry macs!!Had the pleasure of meeting Danny Eccles and Co. from Chelsea in 1969 at Newcastle and remember that Man Alive footage being shot.
Black Mix Pure Wool Felt Pork Pie Hat with Stormwear™
Can you believe in early 1969 they didnt sell Doc Martins in Newcastle and we had to go to London to get them!!!!!

great days indeed

I bought my Crombie off the Peg,in an East London Taylors-along the Mile End Road(in `69).Coats up to that time were mainly short Tweed Coats(Mods again) and Raincoats.My favourite Jacket of `68 was a Dark Brown Leather Bomber Jacket(with knitted collars and cuffs).which I bought fron Brixton Market-they were popular with the local Skins there.I have not heard anyone in other parts say they owned one.Another 
doc marten shoes were hardly ever worn although my dad bought me a pair in the hope i wouldnt want boots
exampleOne thing we have established skinheads   was wearing nearly  the same jungle Greens in 60s London, Also not wearing British Army Kit,  a new bit of kit would spread like wildfire, could be in a Club like the Croydon Rooms Oval , see something on someone.. ask him, then I may have to travel over to Walworth Road SE London to get it. Just so i could be the first around my way to get that particular bit of clobber .The button down shirt was often a Ben Sherman. Skinheads wore plain ben shermans, the first were great oxford cotton ones that quickly became crap poly cotton ones, gingham check, sometimes other check patterns were worn , or as said plain Oxford cotton. Ben Sherman struggled to keep up with demand and alternatives from Brutus and Jaytex were also available in similar styles, only wankers wore these . Fred Perry shirts were also worn by Skinheads in the 60s.
Skinheads wore Crombie overcoats, favoured by gangsters such as the Krays, but smart and expensive. Alternatives were fly fronted gabardine Macs or sheepskin coats. The look was grown up and smart. Very definitely not hippy.
Skinhead was not Mod, since it was much more of a rigid dress code. The Mod look was ever changing with the mood of the Mod fashion of the time. The later 1979 Mod revival, turned the Mod fashion into more of a uniform, but in the 60s being Mod meant you needed to change your look frequently to stay in fashion. Skinheads had no such problem.
Skinheads had a taste for West Indian Reggae music. In the late sixties and early seventies Reggae was underground. It received very little airtime on mainstream radio 
 KAPPA4TENNIS POLO MSAn early Skinhead band was Slade. They changed their look to glam because of problems getting gigs as Skinheads.
George Melly, in 'Revolt into Style' had no time for the Skinheads, which he also called agro boys. To him they were working class boys wearing a look that passively accepted their limited future. They took on  dead end jobs without protest. Like Mods and Teds before them, In 1970 skinheads  wore the doc martins with Levi 's + half inch turn up, Ben shermans and Harringtons or Crombie overcoats.
If they were going out to a dance they would wear stay press 2 tone trousers with Brogues and white socks and always clip on braces. Hair was a grade 3 crewcut with a razor cut parting or a french crop  but not bald like you see skinheads today. They loved Reggae music and had special dance some of our mates were West indian black guys but the truth was skinheads beat up pakistanis who were at the time non aggressive but steered clear of the wild west indianswho could really fight , we all just mixed up together is bollocks in a certain kind of way.
By 1971 we had let our hair grow a bit but it was still quite short compared to everyone else, we also wore more of our Brogues and Loafers with coloured socks and less of the boots and braces.Please visit our specialist shoeshop www.ilgergo.se for fastest delivery and latest offers!
Hand Crafted in Italy. An Ideal Autumn Winter Chelsea boot. Made from the finest Suede. A Boot in a Navy Blue Suede colour with easy fit elastic at the ankles and
By 1972 the braces were gone and so were the boots and our hair was growing much longer, they called us smoothies or suadheads. The girls still had the feather cut  we evolved into our own smart take on things. Oxford bags trousers, round collar shirts, smart jackets and longish hair .chukka boots from m and s were never a skinhead boot.Suede Chukka Boots ClothingSuede Chukka Boots Clothing
I remember buying a smart 3/4 length leather coat around 1973, I think by that time skinheads had all evolved into their own individual fashions and the days of the strict uniform type appearance were gone.
Back in 70/71 we certainly did all look the same and if you were on the street and another group of skins came along they would call out 'SKINHEAD' in a type of football hooligan voice.
I remember masses of us at football matches and the police had a hard time trying to keep us under control, it was a bit like an army - a time I will never forget.

On bank holidays we would go to brighton and there would be loads of skinheads on scooters was fun... The best was the clubs with the reggae muscic
I wore braces to at times, and a tin pin in your crombie was important...
Skinheads were involved in violence. Football hooliganism was often put down to Skinheads in the early 70s. In spite of their liking for Reggae music, Skinheads were involved in racist violence, as well as petty crime and acts of vandalism.https://www.tiesplanet.com/register/
https://www.tiesplanet.com/register/Ties PlanetFrom 1970 to 1971, Skinheads conformed more to the traditional image we have of them.  They wore Dr Marten's boots, and trousers or jeans an inch or so shorter than normal length.  They were also making their presence felt in the media.  Acts of violence and aggravation were common, as well as vandalism.(chelsea boots were never a skinhead boot)We threw whole chairs meant for four people out of train carraiges, beat up drunks , and pakistanis , well I never got involved in that but thats what went on. We liked idiot women who were totally clueless and we liked Light and bitter in pubs , what did we eat? we ate mainly in cafes, we would eat steak pie and chips and fish and chips, dont remember us much in wimpy bars though, our fav films were zulu and Up the junction.Please visit our specialist shoeshop www.ilgergo.se for fastest delivery and latest offers!
Hand Crafted in Italy. An Ideal Autumn Winter Chelsea boot. Made from the finest Suede. A Boot in a Navy Blue Suede colour with easy fit elastic at the ankles and
The 1968 to 1969 Skinhead look did not last much into the 70s. Skinheads started to grow their hair longer. The media invented new terms such as suedehead, for a slightly longer Skinhead look. Then they grew their hair long and wore flares and penny collars, like everyone else. Like Mod, the Skinhead look had a revival at the end of the 70s and into the early 80s.below the roba di kappa styled on the fred perry , a better polo in my opinion





"
Gingham check Ben Shermans, Brutus, Jaytex and Fred Perry shirts. Levi jeans shrunk to fit by wearing them sitting in a bath. Round crew neck Brutus jerseys. Harrington jackets in black and in Prince of Wales check. Levi StaPrest trousers in Stone, Black, Bottle Green or Navy. Clip-on braces. Crombie style overcoats worn with a red silk hankerchief in the breast pocket secured by a gold tie tack. Brogues, Smoothes, Loafers and heavy and light Solatio Shoes with the woven instep. All double soled and heeled with metal 'quarter tips' on the heels. Doc Martens. 'Docker' olive green jeans.Plain broguesmod shoes brogue UPSETTER-OXBLOOD-001
 Ben's, Fred's, Cherry Red Doc's, Brouges, Loafers, Crombie?Red hanky, 501's, Tonic's (Trousers & suits), Tonic suits with 15in centre vents, 1000 dex for 20 from finchley high rd. BD career club shirts from Richmond. Down the Trade till 11.00- on the train to Tiles Oxford St and the subway- or straight up to Bromley South Peyton Place or the penthouse .in the beginning skinheads began down in West Ham its said ,nail boots and a donkey jacket (very fashionable) Also made to measure suits from Burtons. " 


most of us in Bristol at any rate wore zip up suede or even leather bomber jackets bought from ex-Army stores, we all believe they were from the Korean war, but not so sure - they certainly had irridescent Tonik linings which I guess also appealed to us.
By the way, Baracuta is a British company, think they were originally made in the 30s as a golfing jacket , its now Italian.
most of us started with ex Army hobnail boots then progressed onto Monkey Boots - there certainly weren't many DMs around in 1969 that's for sure.Reggae died out for Rod tight wad Stewert in the end. Maggie May was a turning point .

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