Pizzeria Sorbillo. Every Neapolitan has a favorite pizzeria, and will argue its merits for hours. Anyway, this one is my favorite. It's in the middle of the historic district (there's also an outpost by the water, but it's not quite as good, although a significantly more comfortable experience), and makes a good lunch break between visiting churches. It can get dauntingly crowded, so best to arrive early. Even so you'll probably have to give your name and wait in the street dodging taxicabs until they call you on the loudspeaker. Don’t screw around with any of the fancy toppings - just order a pizza margherita. If you’ve got a lot of time and energy, go to Trattoria Nennella, in the Spanish Quarter. It’s loud and crowded - you'll probably wait quite a while to get a table, unless you go early, around 7 - but cheap and good. The menu has maybe ten items total. Expect some good-natured haranguing from the wait staff.
If you want to try something different, go to Mu, in Chiaia. Every dish they make, from fish to desserts, uses mozzarella. You’d be surprised how good it is
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