love Gatsby men! Think dapper: Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper and William Powell. Think classic stores like Cable Car Clothiers or Brooks Brothers. Fortunately menswear hasn't changed that much over the years. Even if you feel the need to buy something for Gatsby you may be able to wear it again.
According to Emily Post in 1922 men should wear suits at most occasions, the exception being when he is in the country. Since the Gatsby Summer Afternoon is a "country" event you may wear a light suit or sports clothes.
A hat is a must, men did not appear in public without them. Try a dashing straw Panama hat or the dapper boater. In the East, men's straw hats were worn only between Memorial Day and Labor Day, but since California was considered a resort destination, they are appropriate during our summer-like weather in September. (That's our story, and we're sticking to it.)
The fedora is a classic and correct in straw or light colored wool. Please avoid the gambler and cowboy hat, unless you are, in fact, a riverboat gambler or cowboy.
For the more casual gentleman or "sport" - the golf cap.
We've found a great site out of Britain that sells Fair Trade Panama and other hats; they mail all around the world. Check out Pachacuti.
Shirts
Try a long-sleeved cotton dress shirt in white, stripes, or light colors. There is no such thing as a short sleeved dress shirt at this time (and some of us wish they had never been invented).Into the 20s men were still wearing detachable collars and cuffs. The detachable collar and cuff were developed to help shirts last a bit longer. Collars and cuffs wear faster and get dirty easier than the body of the shirt and washing was often expensive. So detachable items were created and sold separately. So a striped shirt with a matching collar is fine, but a striped shirt with a contrasting white collar is perfect.
When in doubt a classic dress shirt in white or pastels is fine. Add any of the following for a dapper look: french cuffs, rounded collar, pinned collar, tab collar. Button down collars are fine, but considered casual. The collar spread should be traditional, and not spread too wide.
Ties
A traditional tie is fine, preferably a little on the wide side and worn short with the tip ending just above the belt. A bow tie is terrific. Ehow also delivers a good lesson on how to tie a bow tie. Hint: it is the same knot you use to tie your shoe. Click here for diagrams of over a dozen tie knots. Tie pins were very popular in the 20s.If you don't want to wear a tie you are out of luck, a gentleman does not appear in public without some kind of silk around his neck. Try an ascot if you hate the noose.
Fabric choices for ties and ascots: silk or, rarely, linen; in stripes, dots, neats, plaid and paisley.
Jackets, Suits and Vests
The 20s saw some radical changes to men's clothes. Many of the styles are still relevant today. This also means you have a wide variety from which to choose.The cut of men's suits and jackets varied throughout from the 20s and 30s. The Sacque suits is traditional and what the average man wore. The saque is has a unstructured fit, but nothing outrageous - think classic Brooks Brothers.
The Oxford suit has a trim jacket with a nipped in waist and very full pants. The "Oxford bag" become popular in 1925 when Oxford University banned the wearing of knickers and plus fours in the classroom (more on these later). The students loved their sporty knickers so they had extra wide legged pants made that could be worn over them.
This topic can go on and on, so here are some links:
Men's Vintage Fashion by Carol Nolan
Love to Know Men's Fashion in the 1920s
1920s Fashion and Music Men's Suits
For Gatsby you are shooting for vintage elegant summer day wear. So a suit in a soft color: slate blue, putty, mustard; or a pattern like a glen paid or hound tooth. A Navy double-bested jacket with slacks is dapper as well.
Vests
By all means! A man appearing in a shirt was rather shocking in the presence of ladies. Suits of the 20s and 30s had vests and so should you.You can wear a sweater vest. If you don't have a jacket, a sleeveless sweater vest makes a nice substitute, and looks quite collegiate.
Sweaters
Along with the sweater vest you might try a classic sweater: crew, v-neck or classic cardigan; in cotton, wool or cashmere (though these could be a trifle warm). Sweaters should be a solid color, argyle or plaid. Shopping-wise stick to very traditional and you should hit it on the nose.Braces
Gentlemen wear braces, firemen wear suspenders; firemen are in a hurry, gentlemen are not. The difference? Braces have buttons and suspenders have clips. Clips damage pants and are never a good idea unless the only thing you require is something that will keep your pants up. If you want to make a vintage fashion statement have your dry cleaner sew brace buttons inside the waistband of your pants.Braces keep pants at your natural waist in the 20s and above it in the 30s.
Braces should not be all elastic. Too much stretch leads to bouncy pants. Authentic braces are Y-shaped and the elastic is on the vertical stem of the Y only. Fabrics can look a lot like neck tie silk but should coordinate, not match, the tie. Braces can also be made of elaborate woven jacquards depicting various motifs and scenes.
Never, ever wear a belt and braces. No one should be that concerned with their pants falling down while in civilized society.
Pants
One word - full. Pants were cut fuller than they are today. This creates a softer drape and an elegant line. The 20s and 30s usually mean pleated pants and the option of cuffs. Bump up the vintage look and add braces. Look for chinos, simple slacks, seersucker, small checks or plaids, in lighter colors and fabrics. Pants in the 20s are worn at the waist, not the hip, and in the 30s they ride a bit above the waist.Knickers and plus fours (and sixes-eights) all buckle just below the knee. Knickers look like regular pants that stop with a strap and buckle at the knee. Plus fours are four inches longer than the knee but are buckled at the knee creating fullness. Plus sixes and eights are six and eight inches, respectively, below the knee and are fuller but much less common.
Shoes
Ditch the athletic shoes. Look for bucks, saddle shoes, oxfords, or loafers.Two-tone combinations are in. Men wore brown shoes for day only; two-toned shoes could appear in summer.
In the early 20s some men were still wearing spats.
Socks
You're not done yet! Socks are part of the whole look. They can be very thin dress socks that match the pants or thicker with cables or patterns to wear with knickers.Remember to have fun combining patterns and colors. They did. A striped shirt, paisley tie, plain vest, tweedy-plaid knickers, argyle socks and saddle shoes could be, if done well, the height of fashion.
George Carvalho sends us this amazing link for gold knickers and over the calf argyle socks:
http://www.golfknickers.com/cotblenarsoc.html
For personal grooming, your nattiest close shave and hair trimmed tidy.
Click! Emily Post 1922 on Men's Clothes
Now on to the Do's and Don'ts!
Where you are, thats where I wanna be
And through your eyes, all the things I wanna see
And in the night, you are my dream
Youre everything to me
Chorus: Youre the love of my life
And the breath in my prayers
Take my hand, lead me there
I cant forget the taste of your mouth
From your lips the heavens pour out
I cant forget when we are one
[- From: http://www.elyrics.net -]
With you alone I am free
Bridge: Everyday, every night, you alone
Youre the love of my life
Everyday, every night, you alone, Youre the love of my life
Outro: We go dancing in the moonlight
With the starlight in your eyes
We go dancing till the sunrise
You and me were gonna dance, dance, dance
At just 5' 9" with big ears and an almost emaciated frame, Fred Astaire was not exactly what you would call devastatingly handsome. This, however, is one case where the clothes definitely made the man. In his trademark top hat and tails on stage, Astaire was the epitome of sartorial style. Ironically, he hated it. The consummate gentleman, who could sing and dance dressed to perfection, actually preferred to sport more casual clothing. Still, in Fred Astaire’s world, that never meant sacrificing a sense of refinement. His attention to detail with impeccably tailored blazers and slacks that were finished off with a perfectly tied cravat and fedora was par for the course during the 1940s. He was part of an age when men actually dressed like men. There were no oversize tracksuits or V-neck tees in sight. All that existed were expertly tailored suits that fit like a glove and made men walk with an air of confidence (not cockiness), which is the true essence of masculinity.
Style icon Fred Astaire favoured Savile Row tailors who were, and still are, known for producing deconstructed suits that follow the natural contours of the body. it wasn’t just fit that made him stand out from the crowd. Astaire’s real style icon status comes from his ability to be simultaneously timeless and fashion-forward. His classic move was to substitute a brightly patterned tie for a belt. That boldness is as much Brooks Brothers as it is Brooklyn, and it is evidence of how Fred Astaire’s style transcends both time and place. Perhaps the unwitting style icon Fred Astaire knew that a traditional top hat and tails would just never be enough to leave an indelible impression in fashion history.
Dress the Astaire way
Before you write off style icon Fred Astaire as just a typical suit-and-tie guy, there are important lessons here that can be applied to any lifestyle. First, everything must appear effortless. If you wear a suit everyday, it should look nearly as comfortable as jeans and a T-shirt. Despite his tailored jackets with slim and high armholes, Astaire could practically do cartwheels all suited up. If you are of the relaxed ilk, you can still follow style icon Fred Astaire’s lead by making sure to always look polished. This is where the fit of everything (even that T-shirt) becomes critical. Second, you need to be willing to take risks. Style icon Fred Astaire embraced pattern and colour in everything from plaid sports jackets to bright blue hosiery. Replacing those tired, solid black dress socks with something more interesting -- like the Paul Smith Neon Stripe sock or the Paul Smith Gingham sock -- would be an appropriate homage to Astaire. It’s a little hint of self-assurance that doesn’t result in looking like the insecurity of trying too hard. Finally, you can find a signature accessory to regularly incorporate into the way you dress. Just as Fred Astaire frequently turned a tie into a belt, you could try out a pocket square or unique piece of jewellery. It should be something that people come to expect you to wear yet always forces them look twice no matter how many times they’ve seen it. Above all, style icon Fred Astaire’s way is about having confidence and owning the way you look, and that never goes out of style.1. When in doubt: a white oxford shirt.
2. That being said, it wouldn't kill you to mix things up every once in a while. Pinstripe shirts are good. Windowpane, too.
3. Blue gingham. Trust us.
4. The closest a man should ever come to touching denim shorts is helping a woman out of them.
5. There is a name for men who can pull off wearing sports jerseys. They're called professional athletes.
6. "I'm on vacation" has never been a good excuse for anything, including doing body shots, ignoring intelligence warnings about possible terrorist attacks, and wearing whatever you damn well please.
7. A rugby shirt is the most masculine thing a man can wear.
8. The 1950s and '60s were the high points of casual. Everything before and after was hit-or-miss.
9. Fitted is good. Snug is dicey. Tight is just wrong.
10. Hemp clothes are great. If you want to smoke them.
11. Khaki pants will look and feel their best approximately two weeks before disintegrating.
12. The man who imparts opinions via T-shirt has neither the intelligence to form a cogent opinion nor the good sense to keep it to himself.
13. Small holes in jeans? Kind of cool. Small holes in sweaters? Pathetic.
14. Justin Timberlake doesn't look quite as good as he thinks he does.
15. When purchasing jeans, leave the acid, stone, and other artificial washes to the good people of Eastern Europe. The best way to break in a pair of jeans is to wear them as often as you can.
16. The shinier the shine or the pointier the point, the less casual the shoe.
17. A discreet paint or grass stain conveys a sense of lived-in comfort. The same cannot be said for stains from food, dirt, wine, or bodily fluids. That's just gross.
18. Denim is the center of the casual universe. And some things look better with it than others. A quick primer:
All the Time: Cotton button-down or T-shirt, brown loafers, navy-blue blazer, cashmere sweater.
Most of the Time: Crewneck sweatshirt, black loafers, tweed jacket, cotton turtleneck, white sneakers.
Only Sometimes: Hooded sweatshirt, high-top sneakers, sports jersey.
Only Under Duress: Waistcoat, silk shirt, flip-flops, necktie.
Only Under Penalty of Death: Cufflinks, suspenders, opera cape.
19. Everything looks better with age. Except for white T-shirts. Those look best new.
20. The Professor was the best-dressed man on Gilligan's Island, followed by Gilligan, Thurston Howell III, and the Skipper. Oh, and for what it's worth, Ginger. By God, Ginger.
21. There is nothing so wrong with one's appearance that can't be improved, however slightly, by tucking in one's shirt and standing up straight.
22. Always tuck: polo and dress shirts that hang below your hip. Never tuck: sweaters and turtlenecks. Everything else is negotiable.
23. Articles of clothing that you can dress up: polo shirts, khaki shorts, blue jeans, white sneakers, and, for Texans, cowboy hats and boots.
24. Articles that you can never dress up: sports jerseys, track pants, wifebeaters, Birkenstocks, and flip-flops.
25. The only ribbed items a man should wear are socks and condoms, and he best not confuse the two.
26. A $40 pair of jeans can fit you just as well and look just as good as a $200 pair. They'll just take a whole lot longer for you to find.
27. Cotton is the universal language of casual clothing. Wear it anywhere and you'll fit right in.
28. Sweatpants are for sick days, couch surfing, and light exercise. For anything else, throw on a pair of jeans and get on with it.
29. Athletes inspire the best sneakers.
30. Velour: no.
31. Never wear more than two denim items at a time. Scratch that: Never wear more than one denim item at a time, and make sure it's not a vest.
32. Michael Bastian. Tim Hamilton. Adam Kimmel. Learn these names, for they are the future of American men's wear.
33. To our knowledge, tank drivers never wore tank tops. If they did, we might like them better.
34. Khaki is a color. Chinos are a pair of pants. Know the difference but feel free to use the terms interchangeably.
35. Any man who plays contact sports while wearing a watch he values — formal, sport, or diving — deserves exactly what's coming to him.
36. Leather watch straps.
37. The more expensive a restaurant's entrées, the less comfortable you will feel in jeans. Unless, of course, you could buy the restaurant, in which case you can get away with anything you want.
38. Tennis and baseball are the most influential sports on American style. Discuss.
Tennis: Lacoste polo shirts, Rod Laver and Stan Smith sneakers, tennis sweaters
Baseball: Brimmed caps, three-quarter-length shirt sleeves, flip-up sunglasses
Basketball: High-top sneakers, mesh shorts
Football: XXXL everything
Boxing: Boxer shorts
39. No one you work with should ever see your toes or your nipples. Please dress accordingly.
40. Remove the brass buttons from your store-bought sport coat and replace them with buttons from a fancy golf club. It will annoy the hell out of the club's (real) members.
41. The button fly is:
a) total bullshit.
b) the latest battle in the decades-old war between the all-powerful zipper and button industries.
c) a way to avoid tearing up your johnson.
d) all of the above.
(Answer: c)
42. Animals make the best logos.
43. For bomber jackets, brown; for biker jackets, black. Deviate at your own peril.
44. Dress not like Kanye West. That goes for you, too, Kanye.
45. Before you buy a cashmere sweater, touch the fabric and then rub your fingers together. If it imparts any residue or feels slippery, that's a sure sign of bad or even fake cashmere. That and the forty-nine-dollar price tag.
46. There's a 74 percent chance that a man who isn't wearing socks isn't wearing underwear, either. Both endeavors attract the same kind of man.
47. Don't borrow any clothes from that man.
48. The best jeans have five pockets. The best khakis have four. Anything more or less and you're asking for trouble. Oh, and 1998 called: It wants its cargo pants back.
49. Unless you're wading into water or modeling for a catalog, there's never a right time to roll up your pants.
50. Unless he's a chef, a gardener, or a jolly fat man from Holland, no one should ever wear clogs in his daily life. Same goes for Crocs.
51. Speaking of: We're not sure what Americans did to deserve Crocs, but whatever it was, we're sorry. We're really, really sorry.
52. If you see the words "Barbecue," "Come as you are," "Bring the kids," or "BYO" on an invitation, dress casually. When in doubt, bring a navy-blue blazer.
53. Or a cardigan. A cardigan works, too.
54. The greater the number of exclamation points on an invitation, the more casual you can dress.
55. Unless he's headed to a black-tie wedding, a man always has options.
56. Even casual style demands good shoes. But not all shoes are equally casual.
57. Unless you're wearing a blazer, there's no wrong time to roll up your sleeves. How high you choose to roll them says a lot about you.
58. The solid blue button-down shirt is the Jay Leno of American style.
59. There are worse things in the world than being known as the guy who always wears a blue button-down. Like being known as the guy who looks like he just rolled out of bed or the guy who always smells a little funny. If you're going to settle on a look, get it right.
60. The baseball cap is America's greatest contribution to headwear. Runner-up: the cowboy hat.
61. Berets: no. Not in Paris, France, and especially not in Paris, Texas.
62. The overlap between active sportswear and casual party attire should be kept to an absolute minimum. Leave the neon shirts and pants for the links, the white tennis shorts to the courts, and the swimsuit at the pool.
63. There's no harm in letting yourself go, so long as you're never more than an hour away from pulling yourself together.
64. A hood knocks ten years off your age and twenty points off your IQ.
65. Sunglasses don't belong on top of your head, folded into the neck of your shirt, or hanging around your neck by some nylon cord. If you have to remove them, hold them or put them on a table.
66. A man of style never discusses the cost of his clothing, even if that fourteen-dollar sweater was a total steal.
67. We're all for comfort. Just make sure the damn thing fits.
68. If you're on the shorter side, vertical pinstripes help stretch out your legs.
69. There's not a whole lot of room for irony or imitation in style. The best-dressed men always dress like themselves.
2. That being said, it wouldn't kill you to mix things up every once in a while. Pinstripe shirts are good. Windowpane, too.
3. Blue gingham. Trust us.
4. The closest a man should ever come to touching denim shorts is helping a woman out of them.
5. There is a name for men who can pull off wearing sports jerseys. They're called professional athletes.
6. "I'm on vacation" has never been a good excuse for anything, including doing body shots, ignoring intelligence warnings about possible terrorist attacks, and wearing whatever you damn well please.
7. A rugby shirt is the most masculine thing a man can wear.
8. The 1950s and '60s were the high points of casual. Everything before and after was hit-or-miss.
9. Fitted is good. Snug is dicey. Tight is just wrong.
10. Hemp clothes are great. If you want to smoke them.
11. Khaki pants will look and feel their best approximately two weeks before disintegrating.
12. The man who imparts opinions via T-shirt has neither the intelligence to form a cogent opinion nor the good sense to keep it to himself.
13. Small holes in jeans? Kind of cool. Small holes in sweaters? Pathetic.
14. Justin Timberlake doesn't look quite as good as he thinks he does.
15. When purchasing jeans, leave the acid, stone, and other artificial washes to the good people of Eastern Europe. The best way to break in a pair of jeans is to wear them as often as you can.
16. The shinier the shine or the pointier the point, the less casual the shoe.
17. A discreet paint or grass stain conveys a sense of lived-in comfort. The same cannot be said for stains from food, dirt, wine, or bodily fluids. That's just gross.
18. Denim is the center of the casual universe. And some things look better with it than others. A quick primer:
All the Time: Cotton button-down or T-shirt, brown loafers, navy-blue blazer, cashmere sweater.
Most of the Time: Crewneck sweatshirt, black loafers, tweed jacket, cotton turtleneck, white sneakers.
Only Sometimes: Hooded sweatshirt, high-top sneakers, sports jersey.
Only Under Duress: Waistcoat, silk shirt, flip-flops, necktie.
Only Under Penalty of Death: Cufflinks, suspenders, opera cape.
19. Everything looks better with age. Except for white T-shirts. Those look best new.
20. The Professor was the best-dressed man on Gilligan's Island, followed by Gilligan, Thurston Howell III, and the Skipper. Oh, and for what it's worth, Ginger. By God, Ginger.
21. There is nothing so wrong with one's appearance that can't be improved, however slightly, by tucking in one's shirt and standing up straight.
22. Always tuck: polo and dress shirts that hang below your hip. Never tuck: sweaters and turtlenecks. Everything else is negotiable.
23. Articles of clothing that you can dress up: polo shirts, khaki shorts, blue jeans, white sneakers, and, for Texans, cowboy hats and boots.
24. Articles that you can never dress up: sports jerseys, track pants, wifebeaters, Birkenstocks, and flip-flops.
25. The only ribbed items a man should wear are socks and condoms, and he best not confuse the two.
26. A $40 pair of jeans can fit you just as well and look just as good as a $200 pair. They'll just take a whole lot longer for you to find.
27. Cotton is the universal language of casual clothing. Wear it anywhere and you'll fit right in.
28. Sweatpants are for sick days, couch surfing, and light exercise. For anything else, throw on a pair of jeans and get on with it.
29. Athletes inspire the best sneakers.
30. Velour: no.
31. Never wear more than two denim items at a time. Scratch that: Never wear more than one denim item at a time, and make sure it's not a vest.
32. Michael Bastian. Tim Hamilton. Adam Kimmel. Learn these names, for they are the future of American men's wear.
33. To our knowledge, tank drivers never wore tank tops. If they did, we might like them better.
34. Khaki is a color. Chinos are a pair of pants. Know the difference but feel free to use the terms interchangeably.
35. Any man who plays contact sports while wearing a watch he values — formal, sport, or diving — deserves exactly what's coming to him.
36. Leather watch straps.
37. The more expensive a restaurant's entrées, the less comfortable you will feel in jeans. Unless, of course, you could buy the restaurant, in which case you can get away with anything you want.
38. Tennis and baseball are the most influential sports on American style. Discuss.
Tennis: Lacoste polo shirts, Rod Laver and Stan Smith sneakers, tennis sweaters
Baseball: Brimmed caps, three-quarter-length shirt sleeves, flip-up sunglasses
Basketball: High-top sneakers, mesh shorts
Football: XXXL everything
Boxing: Boxer shorts
39. No one you work with should ever see your toes or your nipples. Please dress accordingly.
40. Remove the brass buttons from your store-bought sport coat and replace them with buttons from a fancy golf club. It will annoy the hell out of the club's (real) members.
41. The button fly is:
a) total bullshit.
b) the latest battle in the decades-old war between the all-powerful zipper and button industries.
c) a way to avoid tearing up your johnson.
d) all of the above.
(Answer: c)
42. Animals make the best logos.
43. For bomber jackets, brown; for biker jackets, black. Deviate at your own peril.
44. Dress not like Kanye West. That goes for you, too, Kanye.
45. Before you buy a cashmere sweater, touch the fabric and then rub your fingers together. If it imparts any residue or feels slippery, that's a sure sign of bad or even fake cashmere. That and the forty-nine-dollar price tag.
46. There's a 74 percent chance that a man who isn't wearing socks isn't wearing underwear, either. Both endeavors attract the same kind of man.
47. Don't borrow any clothes from that man.
48. The best jeans have five pockets. The best khakis have four. Anything more or less and you're asking for trouble. Oh, and 1998 called: It wants its cargo pants back.
49. Unless you're wading into water or modeling for a catalog, there's never a right time to roll up your pants.
50. Unless he's a chef, a gardener, or a jolly fat man from Holland, no one should ever wear clogs in his daily life. Same goes for Crocs.
51. Speaking of: We're not sure what Americans did to deserve Crocs, but whatever it was, we're sorry. We're really, really sorry.
52. If you see the words "Barbecue," "Come as you are," "Bring the kids," or "BYO" on an invitation, dress casually. When in doubt, bring a navy-blue blazer.
53. Or a cardigan. A cardigan works, too.
54. The greater the number of exclamation points on an invitation, the more casual you can dress.
55. Unless he's headed to a black-tie wedding, a man always has options.
56. Even casual style demands good shoes. But not all shoes are equally casual.
57. Unless you're wearing a blazer, there's no wrong time to roll up your sleeves. How high you choose to roll them says a lot about you.
58. The solid blue button-down shirt is the Jay Leno of American style.
59. There are worse things in the world than being known as the guy who always wears a blue button-down. Like being known as the guy who looks like he just rolled out of bed or the guy who always smells a little funny. If you're going to settle on a look, get it right.
60. The baseball cap is America's greatest contribution to headwear. Runner-up: the cowboy hat.
61. Berets: no. Not in Paris, France, and especially not in Paris, Texas.
62. The overlap between active sportswear and casual party attire should be kept to an absolute minimum. Leave the neon shirts and pants for the links, the white tennis shorts to the courts, and the swimsuit at the pool.
63. There's no harm in letting yourself go, so long as you're never more than an hour away from pulling yourself together.
64. A hood knocks ten years off your age and twenty points off your IQ.
65. Sunglasses don't belong on top of your head, folded into the neck of your shirt, or hanging around your neck by some nylon cord. If you have to remove them, hold them or put them on a table.
66. A man of style never discusses the cost of his clothing, even if that fourteen-dollar sweater was a total steal.
67. We're all for comfort. Just make sure the damn thing fits.
68. If you're on the shorter side, vertical pinstripes help stretch out your legs.
69. There's not a whole lot of room for irony or imitation in style. The best-dressed men always dress like themselves.
Above J.J.Gittes shirt fom Monti
"I know that once in awhile I've been on lists of best-dressed men," says Fred Astaire, the famous star of stage and screen, "but it always comes as a surprise to me. I never think of myself as spic and span or all duded out—just as someone who wants to be comfortable and satisfy his own taste."
"Of course," he says, "in my business you have to dress for the role. At home, I dress for myself."
Astaire likes to think of himself as a conservative, inconspicuous dresser. He has his own ideas on what men should wear. He always has suits custom-tailored. Once he had it done in London, but now nearly all of them are worked up in a Beverly Hills shop at about $250 a copy. "As a kid," he recalled, "I used to abide by the judgment of Brooks Brothers in New York. I think I'm away from that now."
Roughly reckoned, his wardrobe consists of two dress suits (rarely sued except in movies), a couple of dinner jackets, both double-breasted (with a single-breasted on "on the way"), and about 20 other suits. "I gave away about a half dozen the other day," he says. "I hate to see them hanging in the closet, unused." Added to this he has perhaps a dozen sport coats and a variety of gay flannel trousers and cotton slacks—"a couple of dozen leisure combinations."westwood
"I'm fairly careful about the tailoring," he says, "I usually take my suits back to the shop at least half a dozen times—too much shoulder or too loose or too tight. What I dislike is wearing a lot of material." He meditates for a moment. "I don't see any reason to carry all that extra cloth about," he adds.westwood
If has any preferences for a cloth, Astaire says that it is for a light silky cashmere of vicuna. "There's nothing that makes me feel quite as well as a light overcoat of dark blue vicuna," he says.
His standard of taste in dressing is simple. "I just don't like a suit to stand out. I don't want someone looking twice at me and saying in an incredulous tone: 'What was that?'"wsestwood
Astaire does not care for the new Ivy League look. "I simply don't understand it," he says. "It may look well on some people, young ones, but it's terrible on me." He believes that his measure of male dress is basically British. "You have to give them credit. They have been very stable in their designing and tailoring. They hardly ever change."
One of the present-day fashions that roils him is the prejudice against the double-breasted suit. "It's incredible how they have maligned that garment," Astaire declares. "Abroad, you will see three or four double-breasted suits to one single-breasted." For instance, he points out, he prefers the double-breasted dinner jacket—"for one thing, you don't have to wear a vest or that hideous invention, the cummerbund. And I can't comprehend red evening ties or fluffy shirt fronts or that sort of thing."
In suitings, he prefers the sober colors such as dark blue, dark gray, and dark brown—"the only light color I like is light gray." He is also partial to stripes but he wants them at least an inch or an inch-and-a-half apart. "That's distinctly British," he says. "We go away from or toward them in styles, but we always seem to basically revolve around their ideas."
Astaire is willing to confess that the East and the West are twain in fashion and have difficulty meeting on a common ground. "In Hollywood," he says, "you have big hats, long coats, brighter colors, insane combinations, and shirts that stick out over the pants. This has spread to the East but not yet, thank God, to the British."
One of his horrors is the present condition of the male suit coat. He feels that this is the outstanding mistake that most men make in their appearance. "The coat should be just long enough to cover the rear," he states. "The way most of them are today, they nearly reach the knees. I put on one belonging to a friend about my size the other day and I swear it came down to my knees."
Astaire admits that he has been told he has a good figure for fitting. He is inclined to be doubtful about it. "I don't think I look too well in suits," he says. "I'm really quite sloppy—casual, you know. I dress for myself and to feel relaxed." To this end, he possesses a couple of tweed coats in a small pattern of herringbone and one coat with a small gray-and-red plaid.
On tailoring, he feels that all coats should have the British side-vents—"quite deep, about seven inches." He favors two-button jackets, although he used to be an addict of three-buttoners at the age of 20. "I only button one," he says, "and I think it looks better that way." His trousers are cuffed and inclined to be a little shorter than most—"I don't want them slopping over onto my shoes.
Astaire often returns to his outspoken dislike of the present rage for "Ivy League" tailoring. "The unpadded shoulders, the three-buttoned long and boxy coat, the too-short, thin pants, and the thin ties with striped buttoned shirts in dark colors—well, I suppose this may go very well with some personalities but it's not for me. To me, all such look like TV producers. Maybe they want to." It seems amusing to Astaire to recall that when he was young such "outlandish" getups would have dubbed the wearers as "sissies"—but today the most extreme rigs of clothes are worn by the toughest gangs.
As for his shirts—they cost him from $12 to $25—he sometimes has them custom-made but usually picks them up from the counter. Except for full dress, he likes a soft shirt front, and light colors in the pink, blue, and tan range. "Once in a long while I'll buy a striped shirt," he adds.
He prefers a well-made buttoned cuff to French cuffs. In fact he never uses cufflinks except for formal dress, when he generally wears ruby-and-diamond studs and links or sapphire-and-diamond combinations. His daily jewelry is severely limited to a single gold-seal ring and the simples tie accessories.
He has what seems to him to be a "thousand ties" but in reality only between 50 and 100. He likes a full tie, not the narrow ones. "I always like to use the Windsor knot," he says. As for the collars, he dislikes the tab and prefers the button-down and the wide-spread collar— braced by staves. "Once I used to wear bow ties," he says somewhat wistfully, "with polka-dots, too, and enjoyed it, but I've got away from that." He explains his aversion for the narrow tie with a smile: "I'm narrow enough myself, too narrow." He points out that thinness seems to destroy an essential quality of dress, its style, by misuse in ties or lapels. "Look at the thin rolled lapels with the double-breasted suits—they are atrocities."
In his own ties, he prefers a dark color and a very small pattern. He has only a couple of striped ties, emblematic of the clubs to which he belongs.
In the shoe department, Astaire possesses perhaps 50 pairs of professional dancing shoes and more than 20 pairs of his own. "It's really very economical to have that many," he asserts. "I have shoes today that are as good as when I bought them 20 years ago—and I assure you I have worn them many times." A few pairs are slightly large for his feet and Astaire wears two pairs of wool socks with them when he goes walking. All his shoes are custom-made in London.
As for style and color, he prefers suede as a material and the loafer design. Most of his shoes, exclusive of the formal ones, are dark brown. "I don't have any evening pumps any more," he says. "I used to wear them 'way back. Now they're out of style. They were fun to wear but I don't see any chance of them coming back."
"It's rather hard for me to judge the way I look," Astaire sighs. He has been critical of his appearance on the screen for so long—"I think my pants were a bit too short in my last picture"—that he thinks he has little standing in the clique of clothes vanity. For instance, he denies the canard that he blocks his own hats—"but I do stretch them a little." He has a stretcher at home and, often finding that a size seven hat fits him better than the usual 7 1/8, he buys it and stretches it. "I suppose I really take a size 7 and 1/6," he remarks.
In hats, Astaire regrets the fact that he cannot wear a homburg. "I've always wanted to but never could," he asserts. He likes low crowns and fairly narrow brims (about 2 1/8 inches because "an eighth of an inch can make a lot of difference in a brim"). The hat band should be of normal width—"no wide ones, no high crowns, no wide brims." He wears them with an ordinary crease and abhors such developments as porkpies.
Handkerchiefs should be flipped out and folded into the pocket with an appearance of casualness, Astaire thinks. He does not like the square or folded style, nor the puff type that he describes "like a range of the Andes." Once, on a TV show, Ed Sullivan came to him and begged him to put his coat kerchief in properly. Astaire obliged. "I think it set a new standard for Ed," he said. "At least he was still wearing it that way when he appeared weeks later on the show.'
In the way of belts, Astaire likes to use silk handkerchiefs—purely for utilitarian purposes rather than theatrical. He has a 31-inch waist and loses pounds when he is dancing. The resilient silk allows him to draw his pants right. "I used to use old neckties for the same purpose but the handkerchiefs are better." At home he will use a belt, usually shoving the buckle to one side, "simply to get it out of the way."
In all these items, Astaire sticks rigidly to his formula of inconspicuous color and exquisite cut.
In his socks, Astaire allows himself a little leeway. He likes wool in preference to silk and cotton and never wears garters except, of course, when he is working in pictures. He is not too taken with synthetic fabrics of any kind. He is fond of some sort of pattern on his socks, based on a subdued background.
He dislikes shorts of any kind in publics. He prefers double-breasted overcoats. He thinks that his fondness for not wearing ties may have been a sin in the past—"once I was tossed out of a place, I think on Catalina, for not wearing a tie. Nowadays they furnish you some hideous one to appease the other diners."
Although he has several fur overcoats he never wears them—and he abhors fur trim of any kind. As for mohair or silk for dinner jackets, bright-colored or metallic-threaded coats—"good God, no! It hurts me to think about them." He points out that the trend to velvet cuffs and collars is a reprise of Edwardian styles and that he believes it will be ephemeral. He sees fancy vests in a short revival but believes they will subside and go away if no one looks. On the other hand, he is very fond of cardigan sweaters of all types.
Asked about the so-called Calypso influence in sportswear, Astaire replied cheerily: "I sincerely trust that there is none whatsoever." As to the clothes in which he spends most of his time, Astaire pointed out that possibly these were his "sweat clothes," the slacks and sweaters in which he originates, practices, rehearses, and teaches his dances. "I must have dozens of these combinations," he adds, "but this is purely a necessary professional dress."
His own preference for wear would be the ageless, conservative suiting, fabric, and color, complemented with shirt and tie each in its own distinctive small pattern or low-keyed color. The Astaire creed of dress is: "Be yourself—but don't be conspicuous."
peckham rye scarf 65 pounds
oliver bainbridge 22 pounds
silk artillery tie by oliver bainbridge 25 pounds
bainbridge polka dot tie 29.95
Why do women like getting nude in front of strangers so much?
And if not totally naked, at least dressed in a very revealing manner. I swear, it's like if a girl gets to the level of attractiveness where she is not only the prettiest of her friends, but perhaps the hottest in her entire class or even school you literally cannot keep clothes on her. She wants to pose for Playboy, go to the clubs wearing next to nothing, grind up against some greasy guy from Slovakia, etc.Most women can fine a dozen faults with their bodies even if none exist.
Even the ones who make their living as totally nude models (and actresses - hint hint)can rattle off a long list of things they do not like about themselves.
They do what they have to do to stay in the limelight (look that one up) and when they don't
have to do it anymore, they stop. There are not a whole lot of figure models who stay with it because they like it. They get the name and the clothes get put back on. When was the last time you saw Tyra Banks nude or even topless?
The ones you are so upset about (sounds like you have a story you want to tell) are just selling the product they have to gain what they want. Once they have it, bang, the clothes come on and the grinding turns off.
bainbridge14 pounds
hawes and curtis 30 pounds
modwear 25 pounds
- Buy clothing that is fitted for a man in his 30's. Clothing which is too tight will emphasize bulges, while clothing which is too baggy looks sloppy and can make it seem as though a man who is in his 30’s is trying to act much younger. Finding out your real clothing sizes is a main key to dressing your age.
- Incorporate color into professional clothing. This is one of the most important fashion tips for men in their 30’s, because many business professionals become accustomed to black, white, and the occasional gray or brown. Adding a splash of color, such as blue or red, can really help improve a man’s overall wardrobe.
- Invest in a high quality watch. Choosing a gold or silver watch, which will go with every outfit, is ideal for most men. Also keep in mind that men in their 30’s will look more professional in their work place by wearing a watch.
- Choose the right hairstyle for a man in his 30's. This is one of the most important fashion tips for men in their 30’s. Not only should the haircut be age appropriate, but it should also hide hair loss, which is very common for men to experience at this age.
- Invest in at least one suit. Even if the job that you have in your 30's does not require you to wear a suit, you never know when you may need it for an interview, wedding, or funeral.
- Be sure to wear a belt to prevent plumber's crack. This is one of the fashion tips for men in their 30’s that a lot of guys seem to forget about. A belt is also one of the best ways for a man in his 30's to accessorize.
- Be sure to match socks to a suit. Wearing white socks with a black suit or brown socks with a gray suit just doesn’t look right.
- Match ties to shirts when purchasing them. Since many men end up with ties and shirts that don’t belong together, this is one of the most important fashion tips for men in their 30’s. Also don’t be afraid to try out some loud ties with unique patterns to spruce up your outfit a little bit. You're 30, not dead. Show some personality.
- Avoid wearing socks with sandals. Many men have become accustomed to this fashion trend because it makes wearing sandals more comfortable. No matter what your age is, it looks ridiculous.
- Purchase clothes to wear at home, as well as in the workplace. Men in their 30’s are likely to want to go hiking or kick a ball around with the kids in the backyard. Prepare to have clothing which is appropriate for these or other hobbies you may have.
DRESS L.A Be sure to own some T-shirts. T-shirts T-shirts T-shirts. T-shirts are a staple in every L.A. girl's wardrobe. Black, white and grey are the essentials, but don't be afraid to wear brighter colours like pink and yellow to stand out. You should have at least 4 loose/oversized tee's and about 10 tight tank top/ t-shirts.Use dresses for a more feminine look. If you want to look a bit more feminine or you're going out for a lunch date, a dress is always the best option. Go for loose jersey dresses with thin straps. You should have at least 5 simple dresses that you can accessorize with jackets or cardis in the winter.Know that jeans are a necessity. Dark, light, coloured, skinny, straight, baggy, slouch. Whatever the style you must wear jeans, and lots of them. The basic L.A. girl jeans are dark skinnies.Be warm in the winter. In the colder months it's a good idea to get yourself some simple cardigans and jumpers that you can slip on top of your T-shirts.Get some comfortable, casual footwear. Flip flops in every colour. For nights out you should buy some plain black heels that would go with everything!
You have just made at reservation with the restaurant of your dreams. It is a superior steakhouse with dim lighting, a romantic ambiance, and a menu that makes picking an entrée the hardest decision of your life. Its going to be a gala event for you and your guest, and as you allow your mind to foresee the intellectually stimulating and electrifying conversation you’ll be leading over a rich glass of vintage wine and a filet mignon—you realize that you have no idea what to wear. What expectations does a restaurant of such caliber have for their guests? You call the restaurant and ask for the suggested dress, but the standard dress code does not clarify what is expected—it only perplexes you more.
For the most part, restaurant dress expectations can be organized into five categories: casual, business casual, casual elegant, formal, or jacket required. Although these categories can be helpful when preparing for a restaurant visit, they cannot choose the perfect outfit from your closet. What you may need is a guide to help choose a faultless getup for whatever the suggested attire.
Casual
A restaurant that has labeled the dress code as casual may lead guests to believe that the door is left wide open. Yet, as a diner out on the town, keep in mind that when a fine dining restaurant mentions casual, their “casual” expectations are much higher than those of your typical Saturday afternoon on the couch. Your sweats and stained t-shirt are not recommended—you do not want the entrée’s appearance to out-do your own. A casual dress code for fine dining restaurants means comfortable… yet polished. You may want to reference Gap stores, with simple tees or comfy Polo shirts atop fitted jeans, finished with the shoes of your choice. Quoting the more lackadaisical-casual fashions, such as that of Abercrombie and Fitch, where flip-flops and ripped jeans seem to be standard, may not work as well for a fine-dining setting. Think the attire of golf, but not that of surfing.In defining casual, it may be easier to juxtapose it with what are considered dressier characteristics. Light colors, especially bolds or patterns, are considered more casual than your darks and blacks; and while collared shirts are standard for most fine diners, collarless shirts are only acceptable when casual wear is recommended. Rough fabrics, such as linen and canvas can take an outfit down a couple notches, whereas leather shoes and smooth fabrics will take an outfit up some.
Business Casual
To grasp the concept of outfits that comprise the business casual closet, apply the polished-yet-comfortable look to item you would don to the workplace. Now, understandably, with the plethora of businesses, this dress type becomes obscure, leading to many ideas of what is considered appropriate. The job search engine, Monster.com, offers a definition for this ambiguous category, stating, "In general, business casual means dressing professionally, looking relaxed yet neat and pulled together." The key word in that definition is professional, and when taking clients out to lunch or just meeting someone in general, you want to be apart of the higher stature that the chosen restaurant wants to convey. When recommending business casual, the restaurant most likely wants the guests to feel easful, yet apart of the tip-top dining atmosphere.For women, business casual comprises suits, collared shirts, knee-length skirts, and tailored dresses. Capris are okay if they are of a dress-pant material, which is usually not denim or heavy cotton (remember rougher fabrics are technically apart of the casual-only category). Tennis shirts and trousers are apart of the business casual’s lower stratum, but just as acceptable. Clothing that reveals too much cleavage, chest, back, stomach, feet or underwear is not befitting for a place of business, nor is it for a business-casual-type setting.
For men, a combination of a collared shirt,which can range from a tenis/Polo shirt or a button down, and dress pants or trousers, such as khakis, all tucked away and made neat with a belt or blazer, is idyllic. The shoes should be in the neighborhood of loafers or tie-ups—sneakers should be excommunicated. Those should always be shed unless entering into a casual-friendly dining milieu In a business-casual work environment, clothing should be pressed and never wrinkled. Convey a professional look, and if you can do that, you won’t have a bit of trouble complying with the restaurants’ recommendations.
Casual Elegant
Now that you saved your jeans and tennies for the casual kitchens, and your blazer and khakis for business-casual settings —what can casual elegant presume? Restaurants calling for this stratum of dress want guests to slip into dressed-up versions of their casual attire. This can vary, depending on the extent an individual wants to dress up. For him, it could be a dark suit or a button down with trousers, made complete by a sportcoat. For her, a formal pants outfit, or a snazzy black dress complemented by an evening wrap or clutch bag would be perfect for such a grand scene. Both women and men will find turtlenecks, darker colors, and leather shoes to be universally accepted as supplements to casual elegant outfits.Business casual and casual elegant may be troublesome to untwine from each other but the difference lies in the level of personal adornment. Elegant will require more flare, especially for women. You may want to bring out some of the finer jewelry, bolder makeup, and dare to show more skin. Men can don the smoother ties, cufflinks, and may want to wear a black and blue suit before over a gray or tan one.
Formal
Casual elegant is extremely different from formal, so do not bring out your ball gowns for the former category. Those exquisite dresses and tuxedos have a special category all their own, considered formal attire. This category is rare, but when it is suggested, it is imperative that it be followed. The formal standard demands patrons to wear their best, with women in ravishing dresses and men in suits. Formal wear can even go a step above and befall black tie invitations, which call for men to wear tuxedos, and women to wear cocktail or long dresses, or modish, dressy evening separates. A white tie invitation is considered more formal than black tie and requires men to wear full dress, with white tie, vest, and shirt, and women to wear long gowns.Jacket Required
Usually restaurants calling for jackets required will expect both men and women to be dressed accordingly with formal wear, yet depend on the gentlemen to go the extra mile by wearing a matching jacket. It is suggested that women choose attire that embodies the equivalent of men’s formal suits, while capturing the elegance, more so than the casual, of the casual-elegant category. This elegance can be found in gowns of any length and formal evening separates, including embellished pant suits and decorous dresses with complementing jacket.Thinking back to that posh date, where you pulled the casual elegance from your closet and allowed yourself to be taken by the flurry of excitement that fine dining can bring, you can understand why dress codes are sometimes suggested by eateries of a certain merit: they wish for their guests to experience the world they have created. You can savor the luxury of top-notch service best when you too look and feel first-rate. The essence of fine dining wants to take patrons out of their ordinary lives, and for two hours, allow them to bask in the extraordinary experience of their choice. To truly be apart of such a supreme culinary happening—one must look the part and one must dress to dine.
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