gilak Traditional Persian Cuisine
Gilak Restaurant 663 Holloway Road London N19 5SE United Kingdom Iranian restaurants aren't known for their culinary variation, which makes the regional emphasis of this north London outpost all the more commendable. The menu focuses on dishes from the Gilan region of northern Iran, a cluster of coastal towns bordering the Caspian Sea. It's an area that also influences the restaurant's decor, minimal though this is - a fishing net strung across the ceiling, a few framed prints of boats and Iranian beaches.
The single, caff-sized room holds only a handful of tables and chairs. Staff on our visit were happy to explain some of the more obscure dishes, including the 'Gilak special' starter, a hunk of smoked mackerel served with walnuts and broad beans, which are then rolled together in bread to create an interesting combination of flavours and textures.
We also loved the sour-sweet contrast of zeytoon parvardeh (green olives in a punchy walnut and pomegranate marinade). A main of lemon and saffron-marinated joojeh chicken kebab was moist and flavoursome, but it was the regional morgh-e torsh that stole the show: a side of chicken in a sour herb and lemon sauce served with saffron-tinted rice.
70 Askew Road
The single, caff-sized room holds only a handful of tables and chairs. Staff on our visit were happy to explain some of the more obscure dishes, including the 'Gilak special' starter, a hunk of smoked mackerel served with walnuts and broad beans, which are then rolled together in bread to create an interesting combination of flavours and textures.
We also loved the sour-sweet contrast of zeytoon parvardeh (green olives in a punchy walnut and pomegranate marinade). A main of lemon and saffron-marinated joojeh chicken kebab was moist and flavoursome, but it was the regional morgh-e torsh that stole the show: a side of chicken in a sour herb and lemon sauce served with saffron-tinted rice.
Sufi at shepherds bush
70 Askew Road
London, W12 9BJ
Phone :0208 8344888
While many of its contemporaries go out of their way to emulate the canteen feel of Tehran's downtown chelo kebab houses, Sufi is a restaurant in the conventional sense. This is one of few places in London that capably blends authentic Persian cuisine with an intimate environment that's as suited to romantic liaisons as family reunions. The walls are hung with Middle Eastern musical instruments, calligraphic bronze art and the occasional framed painting of a wizened Sufi cleric.
Candles illuminate the linen-clad tables after dark; and a traditional clay oven by the front door turns out soft and seeded taftoon bread. The latter makes a perfect accompaniment to a bowl of ash-e reshteh, a creamy noodle and bean soup that's among the best we've had in the capital. Kebabs are expertly grilled, but this is one place where it's worth experimenting: the khoresht-e fesenjan (chicken with chopped walnuts and pomegranate molasses) is incredibly flavourful, and there are some excellent fish and even vegetarian dishes. There's also an unusually decent wine list, including some punchy reds from Lebanon's Château Ksara.
Candles illuminate the linen-clad tables after dark; and a traditional clay oven by the front door turns out soft and seeded taftoon bread. The latter makes a perfect accompaniment to a bowl of ash-e reshteh, a creamy noodle and bean soup that's among the best we've had in the capital. Kebabs are expertly grilled, but this is one place where it's worth experimenting: the khoresht-e fesenjan (chicken with chopped walnuts and pomegranate molasses) is incredibly flavourful, and there are some excellent fish and even vegetarian dishes. There's also an unusually decent wine list, including some punchy reds from Lebanon's Château Ksara.
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