MOUNTAINS LAKES AND RIVERS OF UK

England covers over 50,000 square miles (130 439 square kilometres) and is the largest of the countries comprising the island of Britain, covering about two-thirds of the island. No place in England is more than 75 miles (120 km) from the sea.the landscape is determined mainly by the different types of rock underlying it. In the south, chalk has produced the gently rolling hills of the Downs, while hard granite is the basis for the mountains of the north and the high moorlands of Dartmoor and Exmoor in the south-west.Much of the land in England is flat (low lying) - less than 1000m above sea level, forming meadowlands and pastures and less than 10 percent of the area is covered by woodlands. Farmers raise animals or grow crops in the fields.Upland areas are generally confined to northern England: the exceptions are the upland moors of Dartmoor and Exmoor in the south-west.he landscape of England is more rugged in the north and the west. The highest elevations are in Cumbria

The Southwest is a long peninsular with bleak moorlands and rocky outcrop. The wide expanse of Salisbury Plain occupies most of the central part of southern England.In the Southeast, a horseshoe-shaped ring of chalk downs surrounds the formerly wooded area of the Weald. The southeast corner, from Dover to Eastbourne, has dramatic chalk cliffsbordering the English channel.

Rivers

England's best known river is, of course, the Thames which flows through London. It is also the longest, at 346km, in England.The River Severn is the longest in total, but its source is in the mountains of Wales, and the parts which run through England are shorter than the Thames.

Coastline

England has a long coastline of 3,200 km. In the south and west, the coastline can be rocky, with steep cliffs. The east coast is often flat and low lying, with beaches and mud flats.

The Borders of England.

The English Channel runs along England's southern border, and the North Sea forms England's eastern border. Wales and the Irish Sea border England to the West. Scotland runs along England's northwestern borders.

The Cheviot Hills are a range of low mountains forming a border between England and Scotland. They extend 35 miles ( 56 km) is a north-eastern to south-western direction. The hills are part of the Northumberland National Park.

The Peak District lies in the southern part of the Pennines. It contains England's first national park, which was established in 1951 . The Peak District covers and area of about 555 sq miles (1,438 sq km). The northern region of the Peak District is covered in moors and oddly shaped hills. The central and southern regions have rolling hills and green valleys. 

The North Yorkshire Dales lie east of the Pennines. This national park stretches across 500 square miles (1,295 square kilometers), touching the North Sea. In the south is the Yorkshire moors consisting of low hills covered with coarse marsh grasses and low evergreen shrubs of heather.

The wide expanse of Salisbury Plain occupies most of the central part of southern England. It covers an area of approximately 300 square miles ( 775 sq km) and is drained to the south by the River Avon. Sailsbury plain is a barren chalk plateau without trees and much of it is used as a pasture for sheep.

Many people travel to see Stonehenge, a prehistoric monument located on Salisbury Plain.The Downs are a series of rolling chalk hills found in southern England.

The Seven Sisters are chalk cliffs, part of the coastline of the south-eastern tip of England.

Seven Sisters (chalk cliffs)

Dartmoor moorland area is famous for the wild Dartmoor ponies that live there.

While England is a relatively flat country, it certainly is not devoid of impressive mountains and many rolling hill plains. These create a gorgeous topography and a natural allure to the jade-coloured countryside of this land. Britain is certainly blessed with an enviable pedigree of mountains. Whether it’s the iconic Ben Nevis or majestic Snowdon, England’s Scafell Pike or the rolling Pennines, there’s plenty to behold – and to climb. As such, scaling the peaks of these beasts features on many Brits’ to-do lists, whether they live nearby or at the other end of the country.

So with this in mind, here’s a guide to some of Britain’s most revered mountains:

Relative height

To start, an explanation. Any heights in this article will be detailed using the relative height method, not absolute height. This is because it gives a more accurate measure of how high the mountain will feel to those climbing it, which you may not get otherwise.

Absolute height uses the old metres above sea level gauge, as this is uniform and well documented. More recently, though, the method of relative height, or topographic prominence, has come to the fore. This quite simply measures a mountain’s height relative to its surrounding areas.

Using this method will not only provide a much better idea of the mountain’s height but also provide would-be climbers with more relevant statistics for the preparation of their trek.

Ben Nevis

Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis, stretches up some 1,344 metres into the Scottish sky, putting it well clear of all others in Britain. Despite occupying a rather remote area of the Scottish Highlands, Ben Nevis welcomes more than 100,000 visitors every year, most having travelled scores or even hundreds of miles in a bid to reach the iconic summit.

By far the most popular route up Ben Nevis is along the Pony Track, as this is viewed to be the easiest and most accessible. That being said, the easy nature of this route leaves many hikers feeling cold, some noting its wry nickname as the ‘Tourist Route’.

That being said, first timers would be wise to choose this route for their maiden voyage. After all, there’s not just the 1,352 metres of ascent to manage, but also the 10.5-mile walk to the peak and back.

Those who make it to the top are justly rewarded for their efforts, with breathtaking views across the Scottish highlands. Brave souls may also wish to try peering over the mountain’s 700-metre cliffs on its north side, which are also among the largest in Britain. As noted by the officials, though, don’t do this if it’s snowy, as the results could be fatal.

Snowdon

Wales’s largest mountain, Snowdon is the third highest in Britain, with a prominence of 1,038 metres. Whilst falling short of its big brother Ben Nevis, Snowdon has long been labelled the “busiest mountain in Britain”, thanks to its range of ascents, summit café and even railway for those wanting to reach the top without all that pesky physical exertion getting in their way.

The Pennines are home to three national parks, which are all fabulous tourist hotspots. These are the Yorkshire Dales, Northumberland, and the Peak District.

The Pennine Mountain Range plays an integral role as a water catchment area and, therefore, boasts serval reservoirs, including Kielder Water and Ladybower Reservoir. These are situated in the main valleys of the range. The abundance of water features, rocky crags and glorious greenery has made the Pennines some of the most awe-inspiring sights in the country. 

Some parts of the range are characterised by exposed limestone, which has led to an extensive variation of caves and rivers due to its lower resistance against erosion. The caves are some of the biggest in all of England. The erosion of the limestone has also created impressive rock formations, delighting spectators.

The peaks of the Pennines are relatively low, often referred to as fells, rather than mountains. These include the fells of Mickle, Ingleborough, Whernside and High Seat. There are also various dales, such as Airedale, Dovedale, Ribblesdale and Wensleydale. 

1	Scafell Pike	t
		In the Lake District, 500 million years of geological processes have produced a physical landscape of mountains and lakes of great scenic beauty. Slate developed from sediments in oceans and seas, volcanoes erupted, limestone was formed by the deposition of dead crustaceans and sandstone was created in desert conditions. Various minerals were also formed in joints and faults in the bedrock. The layers of rock formed were shifted and sculpted - first through different stages of folding and uplifting and then by the actions of glaciers and meltwater. As a result the topography of the Lake District includes smooth U-shaped valleys and steep and sharp ridges, England’s highest mountain and deepest and longest lakes. The Lake District is often compared to a wheel, with the hub approximately at Dunmail Raise, north of Grasmere. The valleys and lakes radiate outwards as the 'spokes'. The Lake District has over fourteen lakes and tarns. The Lake District’s volcanic rock does not allow water to seep away. The high rainfall, combined with the extra deep glacial valleys, means that the valleys are able to store large volumes of water.The climate affects all areas of life in the Lake District. It helped create the landscape of fells, valleys and lakes. It influences farming and tourism and the local economy. It provides opportunities for a wide range of sport, leisure and business activities. Weather and climate - what’s the difference? It is important to understand the difference between weather and climate. Both refer to what happens in the atmosphere. Weather is the condition of the atmosphere over a short period of time - what happens day to day Climate is the average expected weather over the seasons for a region - the long term pattern To put it another way: climate is what you expect; weather is what you get!
					NY223073

Smoked salmon carbonara

1. Cook the spaghetti. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan, add the garlic and gently sizzle for 1 min. Remove from the heat.
2. Lightly beat the cream, eggs, softened garlic and half the Parmesan in a bowl. Stir in the smoked salmon trimmings.
3. Drain the pasta well and return to the pan. Add the salmon mixture and the chives, then toss well so the heat from the pasta lightly thickens the sauce. Serve scattered with the remaining Parmesan and plenty of black pepper.

• 200g quick-cook spaghetti
• 1 tsp butter
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 150ml double cream
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 3 tbsp freshly grated parmesan
• 120g pack smoked salmon trimmings
• ½ small bunch chives, snipped

Smoked salmon taramasalata

Tip the salmon, soft cheese, crème fraîche and lemon juice into a food processor. Blitz everything until smooth, then stir in a very large pinch cracked pepper. Spoon the mix into a large bowl, drizzle with olive oil and serve with toasted pitta bread and olives.

• 100g smoked salmon
• 200g low-fat soft cheese
• 100g crème fraîche
• juice 1 lemon
• drizzle of olive oil, to serve
• black kalamata olive and toasted pitta bread, to serve

prawn cocktail

• 400g cooked atlantic shell-on prawns
• 4 Little Gem lettuces, washed and trimmed
• 5 heaped tbsp mayonnaise
• 5 tbsp tomato chutney
• 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 2 tsp creamed horseradish
• tiny splash Tabasco sauce
• squeeze lemon juice
• paprika, for dusting
• 4 tsp snipped chives

• Peel all but 4 of the prawns (reserve these for the tops). Break the lettuces into individual leaves, then divide the leaves evenly between 4 small glass bowls.
• Sprinkle the prawns over the lettuce and season with black pepper.
• Mix the mayonnaise, tomato chutney, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish and Tabasco together. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt and pepper, then spoon sparingly over the prawns. Dust the top with a little paprika and sprinkle with chives. Top with the remaining prawns and serve immediately. Delicious with brown bread.

• Tip

  Warm water prawns

  The three main species available in the UK are from salt water, although occasionally giant freshwater prawns are available. Their size differs greatly, due to grading by size prior to sale. All have a dense, meaty texture and subtle flavour. Wild and farmed are available, as well as both cooked and raw – sometimes called ‘green’. They are always frozen at source before transporting, so again, don't re-freeze. Best known is probably the striped tiger prawn.

• Tip

  Brown and pink shrimps

  Theses are most often available ready-prepared and brown shrimps are usually sold as potted shrimps. They are caught, then cooked – many are frozen, but occasionally fresh whole or peeled are available.

• Tip

  Shell on prawns

  Can’t be beaten for flavour and texture. Although time-consuming to peel, they really are worth the effort and you can make great stock for risotto from the shells. At times, a shell-on prawn will have a dark green or black head – this occurs naturally due to a pressure change when the fishing nets are brought to the surface. Ready- peeled prawns are perfect sandwich-fillers.

• Tip

  Preparing and cooking prawns

  Once defrosted, peel if necessary. Raw prawns usually benefit from being 'butterflied' (split nearly in half through the back), then remove the dark vein - which tastes bitter and is gritty. Butterflying a prawn shortens the cooking time and helps give a firm, but not rubbery, texture. They turn a deep pinky-orange once cooked. This colour change does not guarantee that they are cooked – the best way to tell is when the prawn turns opaque right through to the centre.

• Tip

  Defrosting

  Defrost prawns in the fridge for a few hours, and never in water as they will lose flavour. As they are sold ready-cooked, take great care if re-heating them; they must be piping hot, but don’t overdo it or they’ll shrivel and dry out.

• Tip

  Cold-water Atlantic prawns

  These are sold as both peeled and shell-on. Most are cooked, then frozen, so find them in the supermarket freezer. If you buy them ready defrosted, don't be tempted to re-freeze them. Stocks have increased and the competition for the market means that they cost less now than they did 10 years ago

• Tip

  Warm water prawns

  The three main species available in the UK are from salt water, although occasionally giant freshwater prawns are available. Their size differs greatly, due to grading by size prior to sale. All have a dense, meaty texture and subtle flavour. Wild and farmed are available, as well as both cooked and raw – sometimes called ‘green’. They are always frozen at source before transporting, so again, don't re-freeze. Best known is probably the striped tiger prawn.

• Tip

  Brown and pink shrimps

  Theses are most often available ready-prepared and brown shrimps are usually sold as potted shrimps. They are caught, then cooked – many are frozen, but occasionally fresh whole or peeled are available.

• 
  

Method

1. Peel all but 4 of

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MONTROSE

 Graham was the only son of the six children of John Graham, fourth earl of Montrose (1573-1626) and his wife Margaret Ruthven (d.1619), daughter of the Earl of Gowrie. James inherited the earldom of Montrose when his father died in 1626. Aged only 14, he was was placed under the guardianship of his uncle Lord Archibald Napier.

In 1627, Montrose enrolled as a student at the University of St. Andrews where he first became inspired by the classical ideal of military glory, as well as enjoying a wide range of sporting pursuits, including hawking, golf, chess and archery. In November 1629, Montrose married Magdalene Carnegie, daughter of Lord Carnegie of Kinnaird. After the birth of his first two sons, Montrose went to France and Italy to complete his education, which included a period at the French military academy at Angers.

Montrose and the Covenanters

Montrose returned to Scotland in 1637 and became active in the revolt against the imposition of Archbishop Laud's prayer book on the Scottish Kirk. He was among the first to sign the Scottish National Covenant at Greyfriars, Edinburgh, in February 1638. The following July, Montrose went with covenanting lairds and clergymen to Aberdeen, where they tried unsuccessfully to persuade the "Aberdeen Doctors" of the university to sign the Covenant. In November 1638, Montrose attended the Glasgow Assembly, which defied King Charles by abolishing Episcopacy and establishing Presbyterian church government in Scotland.

Montrose gained his first military experience leading Covenanter troops against Scottish Royalists in the First Bishops' War. He drove the Marquis of Huntly out of Aberdeen in March 1639 and campaigned against Huntly's clan the Gordons. In June, Huntly's younger son Viscount Aboyne sailed into Aberdeen harbour in one of the King's warships and occupied the town. Montrose returned with artillery and bombarded the Royalists at Brig of Dee, forcing Aboyne and the Gordons to flee.

After the signing of the Pacification of Berwick, Montrose came into conflict with Archibald Campbell, Earl of Argyll, whom he suspected of trying to usurp the power of the King in Scotland for his own ends. He also distrusted the Marquis of Hamilton, who appeared to be in league with Argyll. Montrose drew up a secret agreement with like-minded Covenanters known as the Cumbernauld Bond. Adherents undertook to defend the true principles of the Covenant against the machinations of Argyll and his supporters. Some suspected that Montrose had become a Royalist sympathiser, but he was granted the honour of leading the first regiment of Covenanters across the River Tweed when the Scots invaded England in the Second Bishops' War (August 1640).

When the war was over, Montrose's criticisms of Argyll and his intercepted correspondence with King Charles resulted in his arrest on charges of conspiracy against the ruling Committee of Estates. In June 1641, he was imprisoned in Edinburgh Castle. When King Charles visited Scotland to finalise the treaty with England, Montrose demanded an open trial. Anxious to maintain their new alliance, neither the King nor the Estates would agree to this, but Montrose was released on bail in November 1641. He then retired from public life until the outbreak of the English Civil War when he attempted to rally Scottish support for the King. Montrose opposed the Solemn League and Covenant, which secured an alliance between Scotland and the English Parliamentarians, and joined King Charles at Oxford in 1643. His loyalty to the King and the Royalist cause was passionate and unwavering throughout the rest of his career.

W

hen Lord Leven's Covenanter army invaded England on behalf of Parliament in 1644, the King appointed Montrose his lieutenant-general in Scotland. Montrose planned to start a war against the Covenanters north of the border that would distract their forces in England, but no significant numbers of Royalist troops could be spared for the venture. In July 1644, a small band of Irishmen landed on the west coast of Scotland. Led by Alasdair MacColla, they had been sent by the Earl of Antrim, who had promised to supply King Charles with Irish troops for an invasion of Scotland. MacColla's band marched into the Highlands, terrorising the covenanting Campbell clan as they went. Montrose located MacColla at Blair Atholl where he raised his standard as the King's deputy on 28 August 1644. With MacColla's Irishmen and a motley band of clansmen as the nucleus of his army, Montrose began a spectacular campaign against the Covenanters in the Highlands. He defeated Lord Elcho at Tippermuir in September 1644 then captured and sacked Aberdeen. King Charles created him Marquis of Montrose and Earl of Kincardine in November 1644. The Covenanters put a price on his head, dead or alive.

Early in 1645, Montrose and MacColla mounted a guerrilla campaign against the Campbells and their chief, the Marquis of Argyll. They struck deep into Campbell territory and inflicted a grievous defeat on the clan at the battle of Inverlochy in February 1645, breaking their power in the western Highlands. According to plan, Covenanter regiments were withdrawn from Lord Leven's army in England and returned to Scotland to counter Montrose. The Covenanter army in England was effectively immobilised and Scottish political credibility in London was undermined. After plundering Dundee in April 1645, Montrose was pursued back into the Highlands by Major-General Baillie. Constantly outwitting the Covenanters, he defeated Colonel Hurry at Auldearn in May 1645 and Baillie at Alford in June. In August 1645, Montrose achieved his greatest victory when he defeated Baillie and the Covenanter Committee of War headed by Argyll at the battle of Kilsyth, which left him for a short time master of Scotland.

Montrose's victories in Scotland kept up the morale of the Royalists in England. The King's main strategic objective after the defeat at Naseby was to join forces with him. When Montrose moved into the Lowlands, however, his troops began to desert. He was defeated by superior Covenanter forces under Major-General David Leslie at Philliphaugh in September 1645 and his followers were massacred. Montrose remained in Scotland for another year but he was unable to pose a serious threat to the Covenanters again. In July 1646, King Charles, having surrendered himself to the Covenanters, ordered Montrose to cease hostilities. Montrose sailed into exile on 3 September 1646.

Defeat and Betrayal

An account of his victories, written in Latin by George Wishart, made Montrose a hero throughout Europe. He was offered an appointment as lieutenant-general in the French army; the Emperor Ferdinand III awarded him the rank of field marshall, but Montrose remained devoted to the service of King Charles. He swore vengeance after the King's execution in January 1649 and immediately transferred his loyalty to Charles II, who was proclaimed King of Scots in February 1649. Charles appointed Montrose his captain-general in Scotland and authorised him to negotiate for military aid with European powers. Montrose travelled through Germany, Poland and Scandinavia attempting to raise forces for the King.

...He either fears his fate too much,
Or his deserts are small,
That puts it not unto the touch
To win or lose it all...From Montrose's poem: My Dear and Only Love

To Montrose's dismay, Charles also entered into negotiations with the Covenanters. When talks broke down in May 1649, Charles attempted to coerce the Covenanters by ordering Montrose to take control of Scotland by military force. Montrose sent a small force of German and Danish mercenaries as an advance guard to occupy the Orkneys in September 1649 and joined them with reinforcements in March 1650. By the time Montrose landed on the Scottish mainland, Charles had re-opened negotiations with the Covenanters. Charles wrote to Montrose ordering him to disarm, but the orders never reached him. The Covenanters moved swiftly against him and Montrose was defeated at the battle of Carbisdale by Colonel Strachan in April 1650. A few days later, Charles disavowed Montrose under the terms of the Treaty of Breda.

Montrose escaped into the mountains after Carbisdale. He fled to Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt where he was betrayed to the Covenanters by Neil MacLeod, laird of Assynt. Montrose was taken to Edinburgh and led through the streets in a cart driven by the hangman. Already under sentence of death for his campaign of 1644-5, Montrose was hanged at the Mercat Cross on 21 May 1650, protesting to the last that he was a true Covenanter as well as a loyal subject.

Montrose's head was fixed on a spike at the Tolbooth in Edinburgh, his legs and arms were fixed to the gates of Stirling, Glasgow, Perth and Aberdeen. His dismembered body was buried in Edinburgh, but Lady Jean Napier had it secretly disinterred. The heart was removed, embalmed, placed in a casket, and sent to Montrose's exiled son as a symbol of loyalty and martyrdom. After the Restoration, Montrose's embalmed heart and bones were buried at the High Kirk of St Giles in Edinburgh in an elaborate ceremony with fourteen noblemen bearing the coffin (11 May 1661). Montrose's son James was confirmed in the inheritance of the Montrose titles. The marquisate became a dukedom in 1707.