I was in the 7th arr. near the D'Orsay museum last Sunday taking some photos and had a hankering for a good sandwich. It's like a ghost town in Sundays in August in this upscale arr. where everyone is on vacances, so finding a place to have a sandwich was like trying to find Lindsay Lohan or Amy Winehouse clean and sober. I was whizzing along on the rue du Bac on my Velib when I screeched in front of the Eric Kayser boulangerie because it was open. Eric Kayser is rated one of the best boulangeries in Paris by many critics and food blogs. They had a surprisingly good lunch deal- a sandwich, pastry, and soft drink or coffee for only 8.50 euros. I carefully studied the oh-so delicious selection of sandwiches in the case and the Comté cheese and Bayonne ham « Puerto CacaoLa Mélodie du Bonheur »Where to Find the Best Steak Frites in Paris
Alec Lobrano has been writing about the food in Paris for over two decades, and was the Paris correspondent for Gourmet magazine. When his book, Hungry for Paris came out, I immediately opened to page one and read it cover-to-cover. He’s one of the best food writers of our generation and each chapter tells the story of one of his favorite restaurants in Paris. And now, as a result, whenever someone suggests a restaurant for dinner, I’ll pull my copy of his book from my shelf and see what Alec has to say before I confirm.
We recently dined together on steak frites and I was thrilled when he agreed to write up a guest post with his favorite places for steak and French fries in Paris to share with you. He not only did that graciously, but included notes about what cuts of meat to expect in a French restaurant, which many visitors will certainly appreciate. And for vegetarians out there, he listed a healthy alternative, too!
You can read more of Alec’s Paris restaurant reviews and recommendations at his site and blog, AlexanderLobrano.com, which I read religiously. Not only is Alec a wonderful writer, he’s a terrific guy, and I hope you enjoy his company as much as I do…-David
In Paris, Where’s Le Bœuf?
According to one of the cordial waiters at Au Bœuf Couronée, one of the last old-fashioned steakhouses in the Paris’s old slaughterhouse neighborhood La Vilette in the 19th arrondissement, they haven’t been so busy in years.
Pour quoi? It seems that these trying times have a lot of people craving meat and potatoes, or as the French would have it, steak frites, that infinitely Gallic and profoundly consoling combo of steak with fries or some other form of spuds.
If you’re one of them, I’m happy to share my favorite steak frites addresses in Paris (vegetarians please skip to the last paragraph), but first a couple of pointers.
Though you see more and more Irish, German and Brazilian beef on Paris menus, the French product is infinitely better in terms of both taste and texture, with the best French beef labeled according to where it was produced. The most common premium labels are Coutenance (Normandy), Charolais (Burgundy), Salers (Auvergne) and Aubrac (Auvergne). (And for the record, the best French beef I’ve ever eaten came from a little town called Bazas in the Aquitaine region. I still remember every morsel because it was so full of flavor and had the perfect texture, midway between tender and nervous; you can try it at the Café Restaurant Indigo, 25 rue Fondespan, Bazas, Tel. 05-56-25-25-52).
Many people are unfamiliar with the French lingo for various cuts of beef, so here’s a miniature glossary:
The most common French cuts of beef are the entrecôte, rib steak, the faux filet, which is roughly equivalent to a sirloin steak, and rumsteak, rump steak. Many Parisians also love bavette, skirt steak, and onglet, flank steak.
The two tenderest cuts are the filet and châteaubriand, a thick filet steak, but my favorite is the côte de bœuf, which is a thick on-the-bone rib steak, usually served for two, and full of juice, flavor and texture.
So now let’s eat!
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris, and they serve an excellent entrecôte, which is a little chewy as the best ones usually are, and first-rate frites. The dark-horse reason to come to this charmer, though, is that they serve the best Paris-Brest (choux pastry filled with hazelnut butter cream) in town.
18, rue Paul Bert (11th)
Tel. 01 43 72 24 01.
M: Faidherbe-Chaligny or Charonne.
Open Tuesday to Saturday.
Au Bœuf Couronné
I love the almost somnolent calm of this 1865 vintage restaurant at La Villette, and even though it’s a trek to get here the beef is excellent and the accompanying potato choices make you swoon–the pommes dauphine are crispy nuggets of deep-fried mashed potato and choux pastry with just a whiff of nutmeg, the pommes soufflé, twice-fried potato slices that swell to become round and puffed like a twin pair of the world’s best potato chips but better and the frites are all à tomber par terre (drop dead good).
188, avenue Jean Jaures (19th)
Tel. 01 42 39 44 44.
M: Porte de Pantin.
Open daily.
La Bourse ou La Vie
After working as an architect, the owner of this popular bistro near the Bourse, or old French stock exchange decided on a new career catering to carnivores, and now he’s serving up one of the best steak frites in Paris. I find the slightly bawdy atmosphere of Bankers and brokers whopping it up at noon amusing, but you might prefer dinner, when it’s much quieter.
12, rue Vivienne (2nd)
Tel. 01 42 60 08 83.
M: Bourse.
Open Monday-Friday.
Café du Commerce
When it opened in 1921, this three-level restaurant with a plant-bedecked central atrium and some art-deco allure, was a bouillon, or a place people went for a fast, cheap feed, including its signature pot au feu. With the arrival of new owners Marie and Etienne Gerraud in 2003, the quality has soared but prices remain reasonable, and they now serve excellent oysters, onion soup, œufs mayonnaise and superb Limousin beef. Go for the faux filet or the bavette, both of which come with a small golden mountain of some of the best frites in town.
51, rue du Commerce (15th)
Tel. 01 45 74 03 27.
M: La Motte Piquet, Emile Zola or Commerce.
Open daily.
La Maison de l’Aubrac
I’m not wild about the antic rustic baroque décor of this place, and the 8th arrondissement isn’t my usual stomping ground, but I ignore the fussy cut velvet seats for a chance to tuck into their superb Aubrac beef–the côte de bœuf here is epic, as is the faux filet, and both come with aligot, that irresistible Aubergnat specialty of potatoes whipped with cheese curds and garlic until they have the texture of molten latex. A great address if you’re jet-lagged, because it’s open twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.
37, rue de Marbeuf (8th)
Tel. 01 43 59 05 14.
M: Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Le Severo
Though this little place on the Left Bank has become pricey and the service can get a little perfervid, all will be forgiven when your steak arrives. Owner William Bernet used to work for the Boucheries Nivernaises, one of the best butchers in Paris, and the man knows his meat. I always go for the faux filet and a nice bottle of Vacqueyras.
8, rue des Plantes (14th)
Tel. 01 45 40 40 91.
M: Alesia or Mouton-Duvernet.
Open Monday-Friday.
Le Voltaire
This Left Bank beau monde favorite feels like a rather rarified little club, and it is, but the service is surprisingly friendly and the vieille France food is vastly better than most of what you find in other overtly fashionable Paris restaurants. The filet costs an arm and a leg (€44), but it’s magnificent meat and the accompanying fries are terrific, too.
27, quai Voltaire (7th)
Tel. 01 42 61 17 49
M: Rue du Bac.
Tues-Sat.
And one for vegetarians :
Bob’s Kitchen
For years, vegetarian restaurants in Paris have been stuck in a sort of 1968 time warp of straggly spider plants in macramé baskets and menus that were more wholesome than delicious. Now Mark Grossman, owner of the popular Bob’s Juice Bar, has opened a casual restaurant that resets the dial with delicious dishes like veggie stew, made with quinoa and garnished with eggplant, pumpkin and sweet potato. The curried lentil galettes are terrific, too, and they serve a great selection of fresh juices.
74, rue des Gravilliers (3rd)
Tel. 09-52-55-11-66.
M: Arts et Metiers.
Open Monday-Friday 8am-3p, Sunday brunch 10am-4pm
sandwich on country sourdough bread called my name. It was quite hearty with lots of the strong cheese and buttery smooth ham and I could barely finish it. I had just enough room for the luscious, gooey apricot and pistachio tart. Quite satisfying, I say this is a super bargain especially for the quality of the food, considering the same formule at the Cafe Carlu was 9 euros. Other formules included a quiche and salad for 10 euros, and plat and dessert 15 euros. The service was exceptionally nice and warm and the young waiter spoke English, even though I kept speaking French. Still don't have that accent down. « Brown BreadA Visit to Rungis »Paris Restaurants
101 comments - 10.01.2010
I’m just finishing up my Paris Chocolate Tours with guests this week and we’ve had a terrific time visiting everywhere from Rungis market to watching the talented confectioners at Fouquet work their sweet magic.
Because several folks were spending a couple extra days in Paris, I made up a list of some places to eat they might enjoy, that aren’t stuffy or too-expensive, but places I like very much for a variety of reasons. So I thought I’d share the list here as well.
Chez Dumonet
117, rue Cherche-Midi (6th)
01 45 48 52 40
Great classic French food—and huge portions! Order the crisp duck confit and the Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. One of the few remaining classic French bistros that maintains high quality standards. Although dishes are huge, half orders are available.
Bellotta-Bellota
18, rue Jean Nicot (7th)
Wonderful Spanish hams including the Jambon Ibérique Pata Negra, the black-footed pigs of Spain, the dine on wild acorns. The ham is sublime and goes great with the other Spanish appetizers they serve at this casual restaurant. Do try lomo, the tenderloin of the pig, and the pickled garlic, which is nutty and crisp.
Les Cocottes
135, rue Saint-Dominique (7th)
01 45 50 10 31
This casual hot spot doesn’t take reservations, but the hearty food served in Staub casseroles is worth the wait. Of course, prime dining times are when it’s the most crowded so try to go in off hours.
Da Rosa
62, rue de Seine (6th)
01 45 21 41 30
I am transfixed on their lovely raisins in Sauternes, but the Pimandes, almonds dusted with spicy pimente d’Espelette, are a favorite treat as well. Good place for ‘grazing’ menu, which include four types of Spanish ham, plus you can have Grom gelato from across the street afterward. What’s not to like?
Le Timbre
3, rue st Beuve (6th)
01 45 49 10 40
Every time I eat at Le Timbre, I wonder why I don’t eat at this petit restaurant more often. It’s very small (hence the name, which means “the stamp”) and features very fresh food. Last time I ate there, a French gastronomy club had taken over the restaurant for lunch and were enjoying themselves immensely. And so was I.
Ma Bourgogne
19, place des Vosges (4th)
01 42 78 44 64
On corner of historic place in the Marais. Order the €35 multi choice menu; the steak frites are reliable, as are the foie gras and bleu cheese salads. The key word is ‘reliable’ and the food, and service, get mixed reviews. However the steak tartare here is deservedly popular, as is the glace Bertillon for dessert. A good address since they’re open every day of the week, for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Service is classic French; no reservations or credit cards.
Bistro Paul Bert
18, rue Paul Bert (11th)
01 43 72 24 01
Very good small bistro which has gotten popular in the last few years due to lots of American press. Excellent desserts, including a huge Paris-Brest; a ring of pastry filled with hazelnut-praline cream, which I’m sure no one has ever been able to finish on their own. But it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.
Le Louchébem
31, rue Berger (1st)
01 42 33 12 99
In Les Halles, a classic old-fashioned steak place. The food is standard French, ie: no surprises, but this rôtisserie is fun and lively. Outdoor seating. (Which often means smoking tables next to you.) But if you want to sit amongst French people tearing into rare steaks, this is the place.
A la Biche au Bois
45, avenue Ledru-Rollin (12th)
01 43 43 34 38
Terrific bustling place with honest French fare. Order off the pre-fixe €25+ menu, and be sure to get frites. In the winter, game appears frequently on the menu, served in chipped casseroles, with plenty of rich, meaty sauce.
Chez Denise/Tour de Montlhéry
5, rue des Prouvaires (1st)
01 42 36 21 82
Open 24/7 (closed on weekends) this very old restaurants has copious portions of food. Go hungry. I recommend the brochettes d’onglet (beef) and the cool house Brouilly poured into bottles from the cask resting on the bar. I take guests here for the classic Parisian bistro experience.
Josselin
67, rue Montparnasse (14th)
01 43 20 93 50
A popular crêperie—and lots of fun. Be sure to order a pitcher of cider, which is normally drank from bowls. If this one is too crowded, try their petit branch at 59, rue Montparnasse. Order the ‘complete’, with ham, cheese, and a sunny-side up egg. And if you like buckwheat, order a ‘galette’ (crêpes are made with white flour and those made with buckwheat are called ‘galettes’). Their lunch special for €10 includes a lunch and dessert crêpe, plus a beverage.
Le Verre Volé
67, rue Lancry (11th)
01 48 03 17 34
This tiny wine bar has great food, up by the Canal St Martin, a very hip neighborhood. Generous plates of charcuterie and etc, in this tight little wine bar. A recent remodel has expanded the facilities of the kitchen. Diners choose a bottle from those on the wall and pay a €7 supplement, or pick from their chalkboard list. Can be hectic at times, especially on weekends.
(All restaurants, except Josselin and Ma Bourgoune, require reservations. Places like Paul Bert are very popular any reservations may need to be made a few days in advance.)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a Side Note:
I’d never heard of a shop that required ‘pre-authorization’ to purchase something from them. But leave it to Ladurée take the cake, so to speak. I always begin my Paris Chocolate Tours at Ladurée, because of their historical significance and guests are always interested in their famous macarons. They have a no-photo policy indoors, which I respect because they’re a private establishment and have the right to decide what they allow in their shop. Yet last year, one of my guests took from picture outside, of their decorated window, and a salesclerk raced over, wagging her finger, and mouthing the words, “Non!” So I found out the no-photo rule extends to the sidewalks and streets outside.
It’s likely a company policy and one can’t fault employees for doing what they’re told, but I found it extremely odd that a shop would shoo someone away in a public space for doing what, I believe, is completely legal and benign.
Before I go in to a shop, I stay outside with guests because it’s best to give them any information and my shopping tips outside, so as not to disturb the other customers and because shops are busy doing business and I don’t want to interfere. So when we enter a shop, such as Ladurée, I advise folks not only about their no-photo policy, but also how to best to make their purchases so that we’re not holding up the rest of the clients. (I once had a salesperson give me a nice box of macarons for being so helpful, which was a lovely gesture, and the host of the restaurant when I started leading tours would always give me a taste of a new macaron to try.)
So I was startled this week when we walked in to Ladurée, and the saleswoman told us that we could not come in without ‘pre-authorization’. I’ve been in that store perhaps two hundred times with guests, without any problem whatsoever, so was stunned to be told that we weren’t permitted to visit. I can understand if I had fifty people with me, but we travel in a small group and not one other bakery, candy, or confectionery shop we visited ever has a problem with us. And in fact, they were all incredibly welcoming, including Pierre Hermé, Patrick Roger, and John-Charles Rochoux.
I wrote Ladurée a letter expressing my dismay (a French friend said when I recounted the story, “That’s the French for you..and they won’t do anything”) but something in me refuses to believe that a solid company that was proud of what they offer would be so unwelcoming to visitors. It’s truly sad when one of the great classic pastry shops of Paris discourages customers and guests.
I’m not sure what this new policy means for Ladurée, and I do hope they respond because I would like to feel welcome in their shop and continue to advise readers to go in there. But at this point, I’ve crossed Ladurée off my list. -David
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cafe Carlu
Cité de l'architecture
1 Place du Trocadero, 16th arr.
Metro: Trocadero
Open Wednesday to Monday
http://www.citechaillot.fr
Eric Kayser
18 rue du Bac, 7th arr.
Metro: rue du Bac or Solferino
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 7AM- 8PM
http://www.maison-kayser.com/
Alec Lobrano has been writing about the food in Paris for over two decades, and was the Paris correspondent for Gourmet magazine. When his book, Hungry for Paris came out, I immediately opened to page one and read it cover-to-cover. He’s one of the best food writers of our generation and each chapter tells the story of one of his favorite restaurants in Paris. And now, as a result, whenever someone suggests a restaurant for dinner, I’ll pull my copy of his book from my shelf and see what Alec has to say before I confirm.
We recently dined together on steak frites and I was thrilled when he agreed to write up a guest post with his favorite places for steak and French fries in Paris to share with you. He not only did that graciously, but included notes about what cuts of meat to expect in a French restaurant, which many visitors will certainly appreciate. And for vegetarians out there, he listed a healthy alternative, too!
You can read more of Alec’s Paris restaurant reviews and recommendations at his site and blog, AlexanderLobrano.com, which I read religiously. Not only is Alec a wonderful writer, he’s a terrific guy, and I hope you enjoy his company as much as I do…-David
In Paris, Where’s Le Bœuf?
According to one of the cordial waiters at Au Bœuf Couronée, one of the last old-fashioned steakhouses in the Paris’s old slaughterhouse neighborhood La Vilette in the 19th arrondissement, they haven’t been so busy in years.
Pour quoi? It seems that these trying times have a lot of people craving meat and potatoes, or as the French would have it, steak frites, that infinitely Gallic and profoundly consoling combo of steak with fries or some other form of spuds.
If you’re one of them, I’m happy to share my favorite steak frites addresses in Paris (vegetarians please skip to the last paragraph), but first a couple of pointers.
Though you see more and more Irish, German and Brazilian beef on Paris menus, the French product is infinitely better in terms of both taste and texture, with the best French beef labeled according to where it was produced. The most common premium labels are Coutenance (Normandy), Charolais (Burgundy), Salers (Auvergne) and Aubrac (Auvergne). (And for the record, the best French beef I’ve ever eaten came from a little town called Bazas in the Aquitaine region. I still remember every morsel because it was so full of flavor and had the perfect texture, midway between tender and nervous; you can try it at the Café Restaurant Indigo, 25 rue Fondespan, Bazas, Tel. 05-56-25-25-52).
Many people are unfamiliar with the French lingo for various cuts of beef, so here’s a miniature glossary:
The most common French cuts of beef are the entrecôte, rib steak, the faux filet, which is roughly equivalent to a sirloin steak, and rumsteak, rump steak. Many Parisians also love bavette, skirt steak, and onglet, flank steak.
The two tenderest cuts are the filet and châteaubriand, a thick filet steak, but my favorite is the côte de bœuf, which is a thick on-the-bone rib steak, usually served for two, and full of juice, flavor and texture.
So now let’s eat!
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris, and they serve an excellent entrecôte, which is a little chewy as the best ones usually are, and first-rate frites. The dark-horse reason to come to this charmer, though, is that they serve the best Paris-Brest (choux pastry filled with hazelnut butter cream) in town.
18, rue Paul Bert (11th)
Tel. 01 43 72 24 01.
M: Faidherbe-Chaligny or Charonne.
Open Tuesday to Saturday.
Au Bœuf Couronné
I love the almost somnolent calm of this 1865 vintage restaurant at La Villette, and even though it’s a trek to get here the beef is excellent and the accompanying potato choices make you swoon–the pommes dauphine are crispy nuggets of deep-fried mashed potato and choux pastry with just a whiff of nutmeg, the pommes soufflé, twice-fried potato slices that swell to become round and puffed like a twin pair of the world’s best potato chips but better and the frites are all à tomber par terre (drop dead good).
188, avenue Jean Jaures (19th)
Tel. 01 42 39 44 44.
M: Porte de Pantin.
Open daily.
La Bourse ou La Vie
After working as an architect, the owner of this popular bistro near the Bourse, or old French stock exchange decided on a new career catering to carnivores, and now he’s serving up one of the best steak frites in Paris. I find the slightly bawdy atmosphere of Bankers and brokers whopping it up at noon amusing, but you might prefer dinner, when it’s much quieter.
12, rue Vivienne (2nd)
Tel. 01 42 60 08 83.
M: Bourse.
Open Monday-Friday.
Café du Commerce
When it opened in 1921, this three-level restaurant with a plant-bedecked central atrium and some art-deco allure, was a bouillon, or a place people went for a fast, cheap feed, including its signature pot au feu. With the arrival of new owners Marie and Etienne Gerraud in 2003, the quality has soared but prices remain reasonable, and they now serve excellent oysters, onion soup, œufs mayonnaise and superb Limousin beef. Go for the faux filet or the bavette, both of which come with a small golden mountain of some of the best frites in town.
51, rue du Commerce (15th)
Tel. 01 45 74 03 27.
M: La Motte Piquet, Emile Zola or Commerce.
Open daily.
La Maison de l’Aubrac
I’m not wild about the antic rustic baroque décor of this place, and the 8th arrondissement isn’t my usual stomping ground, but I ignore the fussy cut velvet seats for a chance to tuck into their superb Aubrac beef–the côte de bœuf here is epic, as is the faux filet, and both come with aligot, that irresistible Aubergnat specialty of potatoes whipped with cheese curds and garlic until they have the texture of molten latex. A great address if you’re jet-lagged, because it’s open twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.
37, rue de Marbeuf (8th)
Tel. 01 43 59 05 14.
M: Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Le Severo
Though this little place on the Left Bank has become pricey and the service can get a little perfervid, all will be forgiven when your steak arrives. Owner William Bernet used to work for the Boucheries Nivernaises, one of the best butchers in Paris, and the man knows his meat. I always go for the faux filet and a nice bottle of Vacqueyras.
8, rue des Plantes (14th)
Tel. 01 45 40 40 91.
M: Alesia or Mouton-Duvernet.
Open Monday-Friday.
Le Voltaire
This Left Bank beau monde favorite feels like a rather rarified little club, and it is, but the service is surprisingly friendly and the vieille France food is vastly better than most of what you find in other overtly fashionable Paris restaurants. The filet costs an arm and a leg (€44), but it’s magnificent meat and the accompanying fries are terrific, too.
27, quai Voltaire (7th)
Tel. 01 42 61 17 49
M: Rue du Bac.
Tues-Sat.
And one for vegetarians :
Bob’s Kitchen
For years, vegetarian restaurants in Paris have been stuck in a sort of 1968 time warp of straggly spider plants in macramé baskets and menus that were more wholesome than delicious. Now Mark Grossman, owner of the popular Bob’s Juice Bar, has opened a casual restaurant that resets the dial with delicious dishes like veggie stew, made with quinoa and garnished with eggplant, pumpkin and sweet potato. The curried lentil galettes are terrific, too, and they serve a great selection of fresh juices.
74, rue des Gravilliers (3rd)
Tel. 09-52-55-11-66.
M: Arts et Metiers.
Open Monday-Friday 8am-3p, Sunday brunch 10am-4pm
sandwich on country sourdough bread called my name. It was quite hearty with lots of the strong cheese and buttery smooth ham and I could barely finish it. I had just enough room for the luscious, gooey apricot and pistachio tart. Quite satisfying, I say this is a super bargain especially for the quality of the food, considering the same formule at the Cafe Carlu was 9 euros. Other formules included a quiche and salad for 10 euros, and plat and dessert 15 euros. The service was exceptionally nice and warm and the young waiter spoke English, even though I kept speaking French. Still don't have that accent down. « Brown BreadA Visit to Rungis »Paris Restaurants
101 comments - 10.01.2010
I’m just finishing up my Paris Chocolate Tours with guests this week and we’ve had a terrific time visiting everywhere from Rungis market to watching the talented confectioners at Fouquet work their sweet magic.
Because several folks were spending a couple extra days in Paris, I made up a list of some places to eat they might enjoy, that aren’t stuffy or too-expensive, but places I like very much for a variety of reasons. So I thought I’d share the list here as well.
Chez Dumonet
117, rue Cherche-Midi (6th)
01 45 48 52 40
Great classic French food—and huge portions! Order the crisp duck confit and the Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. One of the few remaining classic French bistros that maintains high quality standards. Although dishes are huge, half orders are available.
Bellotta-Bellota
18, rue Jean Nicot (7th)
Wonderful Spanish hams including the Jambon Ibérique Pata Negra, the black-footed pigs of Spain, the dine on wild acorns. The ham is sublime and goes great with the other Spanish appetizers they serve at this casual restaurant. Do try lomo, the tenderloin of the pig, and the pickled garlic, which is nutty and crisp.
Les Cocottes
135, rue Saint-Dominique (7th)
01 45 50 10 31
This casual hot spot doesn’t take reservations, but the hearty food served in Staub casseroles is worth the wait. Of course, prime dining times are when it’s the most crowded so try to go in off hours.
Da Rosa
62, rue de Seine (6th)
01 45 21 41 30
I am transfixed on their lovely raisins in Sauternes, but the Pimandes, almonds dusted with spicy pimente d’Espelette, are a favorite treat as well. Good place for ‘grazing’ menu, which include four types of Spanish ham, plus you can have Grom gelato from across the street afterward. What’s not to like?
Le Timbre
3, rue st Beuve (6th)
01 45 49 10 40
Every time I eat at Le Timbre, I wonder why I don’t eat at this petit restaurant more often. It’s very small (hence the name, which means “the stamp”) and features very fresh food. Last time I ate there, a French gastronomy club had taken over the restaurant for lunch and were enjoying themselves immensely. And so was I.
Ma Bourgogne
19, place des Vosges (4th)
01 42 78 44 64
On corner of historic place in the Marais. Order the €35 multi choice menu; the steak frites are reliable, as are the foie gras and bleu cheese salads. The key word is ‘reliable’ and the food, and service, get mixed reviews. However the steak tartare here is deservedly popular, as is the glace Bertillon for dessert. A good address since they’re open every day of the week, for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Service is classic French; no reservations or credit cards.
Bistro Paul Bert
18, rue Paul Bert (11th)
01 43 72 24 01
Very good small bistro which has gotten popular in the last few years due to lots of American press. Excellent desserts, including a huge Paris-Brest; a ring of pastry filled with hazelnut-praline cream, which I’m sure no one has ever been able to finish on their own. But it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.
Le Louchébem
31, rue Berger (1st)
01 42 33 12 99
In Les Halles, a classic old-fashioned steak place. The food is standard French, ie: no surprises, but this rôtisserie is fun and lively. Outdoor seating. (Which often means smoking tables next to you.) But if you want to sit amongst French people tearing into rare steaks, this is the place.
A la Biche au Bois
45, avenue Ledru-Rollin (12th)
01 43 43 34 38
Terrific bustling place with honest French fare. Order off the pre-fixe €25+ menu, and be sure to get frites. In the winter, game appears frequently on the menu, served in chipped casseroles, with plenty of rich, meaty sauce.
Chez Denise/Tour de Montlhéry
5, rue des Prouvaires (1st)
01 42 36 21 82
Open 24/7 (closed on weekends) this very old restaurants has copious portions of food. Go hungry. I recommend the brochettes d’onglet (beef) and the cool house Brouilly poured into bottles from the cask resting on the bar. I take guests here for the classic Parisian bistro experience.
Josselin
67, rue Montparnasse (14th)
01 43 20 93 50
A popular crêperie—and lots of fun. Be sure to order a pitcher of cider, which is normally drank from bowls. If this one is too crowded, try their petit branch at 59, rue Montparnasse. Order the ‘complete’, with ham, cheese, and a sunny-side up egg. And if you like buckwheat, order a ‘galette’ (crêpes are made with white flour and those made with buckwheat are called ‘galettes’). Their lunch special for €10 includes a lunch and dessert crêpe, plus a beverage.
Le Verre Volé
67, rue Lancry (11th)
01 48 03 17 34
This tiny wine bar has great food, up by the Canal St Martin, a very hip neighborhood. Generous plates of charcuterie and etc, in this tight little wine bar. A recent remodel has expanded the facilities of the kitchen. Diners choose a bottle from those on the wall and pay a €7 supplement, or pick from their chalkboard list. Can be hectic at times, especially on weekends.
(All restaurants, except Josselin and Ma Bourgoune, require reservations. Places like Paul Bert are very popular any reservations may need to be made a few days in advance.)
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On a Side Note:
I’d never heard of a shop that required ‘pre-authorization’ to purchase something from them. But leave it to Ladurée take the cake, so to speak. I always begin my Paris Chocolate Tours at Ladurée, because of their historical significance and guests are always interested in their famous macarons. They have a no-photo policy indoors, which I respect because they’re a private establishment and have the right to decide what they allow in their shop. Yet last year, one of my guests took from picture outside, of their decorated window, and a salesclerk raced over, wagging her finger, and mouthing the words, “Non!” So I found out the no-photo rule extends to the sidewalks and streets outside.
It’s likely a company policy and one can’t fault employees for doing what they’re told, but I found it extremely odd that a shop would shoo someone away in a public space for doing what, I believe, is completely legal and benign.
Before I go in to a shop, I stay outside with guests because it’s best to give them any information and my shopping tips outside, so as not to disturb the other customers and because shops are busy doing business and I don’t want to interfere. So when we enter a shop, such as Ladurée, I advise folks not only about their no-photo policy, but also how to best to make their purchases so that we’re not holding up the rest of the clients. (I once had a salesperson give me a nice box of macarons for being so helpful, which was a lovely gesture, and the host of the restaurant when I started leading tours would always give me a taste of a new macaron to try.)
So I was startled this week when we walked in to Ladurée, and the saleswoman told us that we could not come in without ‘pre-authorization’. I’ve been in that store perhaps two hundred times with guests, without any problem whatsoever, so was stunned to be told that we weren’t permitted to visit. I can understand if I had fifty people with me, but we travel in a small group and not one other bakery, candy, or confectionery shop we visited ever has a problem with us. And in fact, they were all incredibly welcoming, including Pierre Hermé, Patrick Roger, and John-Charles Rochoux.
I wrote Ladurée a letter expressing my dismay (a French friend said when I recounted the story, “That’s the French for you..and they won’t do anything”) but something in me refuses to believe that a solid company that was proud of what they offer would be so unwelcoming to visitors. It’s truly sad when one of the great classic pastry shops of Paris discourages customers and guests.
I’m not sure what this new policy means for Ladurée, and I do hope they respond because I would like to feel welcome in their shop and continue to advise readers to go in there. But at this point, I’ve crossed Ladurée off my list. -David
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Cafe Carlu
Cité de l'architecture
1 Place du Trocadero, 16th arr.
Metro: Trocadero
Open Wednesday to Monday
http://www.citechaillot.fr
Eric Kayser
18 rue du Bac, 7th arr.
Metro: rue du Bac or Solferino
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 7AM- 8PM
http://www.maison-kayser.com/
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