THE SEX MACHINE OF SOHO . ORGASM FOR SURE

Soho: on the trail of the seedy era of Paul Raymond

The best way to recapture the seedy days when Paul Raymond - the porn baron played by Steve Coogan in The Look of Love - ruled the streets of Soho? An old-fashioned bar crawl.

Steve Coogan and Anna Friel in a still from the film The Look of Love, which has renewed interest in Soho

Well, who would have thought it? A wave of nostalgia for seedy old Soho is sweeping the West End. This is thanks to its starring role as the fiefdom of sin run by soft porn baron Paul Raymond in Michael Winterbottom’s new film The Look of Love.

Suddenly there seems to be something coquettish about those winking blue and pink signs saying ‘SEX SHOP,’ a thrilling authenticity about the gloomy bloke at the top of Walker’s Court - where Raymond Revue Bar used to be - saying ‘Sleaze? Want sleaze? No, sex, mate…oh, forgeddit.’

The best way to recapture the feel of the days when a scantily clad Fiona Richmond ambled through the narrow streets on a white palfrey as W1’s answer to Lady Godiva and Ann Summers didn’t have a branch in half of our high streets is to go on a good old-fashioned Soho bar crawl.

It reassures you many of the old places still exist and many of the newcomers aren’t half bad: and as for the food, not a prawn cocktail or Knickerbocker Glory in sight. Dammit.

Kettner’s Champagne & Cocktail Bar

Kettner’s, like Dracula, never ages, despite occupying its corner of Soho since 1867. Somehow its baby blue and white décor, glamorous mirrors and steel grey plush banquettes keep pulling in the crowds, partly because the staff is courteous and friendly. Turn left on arrival and into the faintly 1920s-cruise-liner bar, wood panelled with cocktail shakers glinting behind an island bar. Try the Cindarine – a Bellini made with homemade Mandarin vodka, cinnamon syrup, bubbles and a twist of Mandarin (£9). Bar snacks from £4.50.

Book: No, unless you want to reserve one of the ‘nooks’ for up to 16.

Look: No code, but the sort of place that deserves some effort.

Where: 29 Romilly Street, W1D 5HP (020 7734 6112;www.kettners.com)

The French House

Opposite Kettner’s, at the bottom of tall, thin pink house, this Soho watering hole houses a jumble of regulars of all ages plus an admixture of tourists, eyes darting in the hope of spotting a celebrity. An old hands at the film game, it already has stills from The Look of Love on the walls, showing Steve Coogan as Paul Raymond in full French House flow. The Champagne list rivals Kettner’s and there is an excellent, startlingly well-priced French bar menu.

Book: Only if you want to have lunch (until 4pm only) upstairs.

Look: Anything goes. Really.

Where: 49 Dean Street, W1D 5BG (020 7437 2477;frenchhousesoho.com)

Soho Theatre Bar

Failed to get into Lab? Been turned away by a blank-eyed bouncer? Salvage your pride in this cheery, unpretentious, neon-decorated barn of a bar which doubles as the Soho Theatre’s front of house. It empties and fills with the audience, so can be crowded, but it has a short, well-chosen wine list and – in good value bar food (smoked salmon bagel £2.50, salads £5). The 1am late licence only extends to members, for the rest of us the curtain drops at 11pm.

Book: Nope.

Look: Whatever you have on.

Where: 21 Dean Street, W1D 3NE (020 7478 0100; sohotheatre.com)

Fernandez & Wells

Every weary barfly needs a place of solace and this tiny wine bar and eatery on Lexington Street is perfect. Wines by the glass are chalked on a board – we had a mellow Chateau La Tour for £5.25 a glass – and the European comfort food (pata negra hams, Manchego cheese, firm green olives, gorgeous bread) is the perfect foil to a night’s drinking. Sit at the scrubbed oak counter and you can’t help getting into conversation: you’re practically sitting on the person next door. Its only downside is the early closing hour: 10pm.

Book: No reservations, but it’s often sardine-tin full.

Look: Doesn’t matter.

Where: 43 Lexington Street, W1F 9AL (020 7734 1546;fernandezandwells.com)

Milk & Honey

I never manage to get into this New York offshoot – now a venerable eleven years old - because I always forget to book and you have to unless you’re a member and can sail in and party until 3am. I mention it only because when I stand around on Poland Street (yet again) staring up through the tall upper windows at what appears to be a faux-industrial interior it looks - and sounds - really good fun. Also, it has a slick wine list and some intriguing drink mixes online. Also, every time they refuse me entry they are unfailingly polite.

Book: Yes. Oh yes. Try early in the week. Non-members exit at 11pm.

Look: Soho hipster, judging by the people I see filing past me.

Where: 61 Poland Street, W1F 7NU (020 7065 6840, dial 6;mlkhny.com).

Archer Street

In the 1940s and 50s, musicians still mustered on Archer Street on Mondays, hoping for work. Archer Street the bar opened a couple of years ago and claims to be the coolest bar in London, which is a bit silly as it looks like an upmarket drawing room and has a polo themed lounge in the basement. It is, however, really good fun. The in-house DJs get everyone up and dancing, the atmosphere is warm and friendly and it has a big, enthusiastic crowd of regulars. I can’t believe I’m saying this but it’s worth the weekend queuing.

Book:Yes, or stand on the pavement making doe eyes at the bouncer.

Look: Dressy rather than hip.

Where: 3-4 Archer Street, W1D 7AP (020 7734 3342;archerstreet.co.uk)

Bar Italia

When the world comes to an end, Bar Italia’s door will still be open on Frith Street. It always is, even in Arctic temperatures. The post-war red and white formica bar is the only way to finish a decent Soho bar crawl: ancient coffee machine, ancient till, footie on the TV in the upper far corner, top tiramisu, over-stuffed eclairs and friendly Italian staff armed with espresso. Despite assiduous merchandising, press coverage and tourists, it’s kept its Soho mojo.

Book: Eh?

Look: Eh?

Where: 22 Frith Street, W1D 4RF (020 7437 5020; baritaliasoho.co.uk).

Maison Bertaux

This Greek Street patisserie with a cheery blue and white striped awning claims to be the oldest in London and figures strongly in The Look of Love: Debbie Raymond buys cakes here to impress fellow-pupils at her new boarding school (it backfires when she eats them all herself) so it seems only polite to join in. Not cheap – you’ll be dropping at least £3.50 for the most basic sugar fix – but how many other cake shops are open until 10.30pm Monday-Saturday (9pm Sunday)? We got there even later, at 11pm, and nearly cried as the window shade slid firmly down in front of the cakes.

Book: No, but it’s tiny and busy.

Look: Doesn't matter.

Where: 28 Greek Street, W1D 5DQ (020 7437 6007,www.maisonbertaux.com)